i removed the bottom spindle inside of the washer compartment. laid the pieces out in order of which they were removed. found the impeller was busted where it attaches to the shaft of the motor. screw was missing but found it laying in the bottom (there is a screen that filters the water as it drains). replaced impeller and put parts back together in order. good as new.
Removed 7 Torx Screws ... removed inner door panel ... snapped off the selinoid after noting the exact original position ... removed the Latch assembly 2 hex head screws ... removed the old Grommet which was crumbling apart ... stretched the new grommet in place. Then did the steps in reverse to complete a successful repair. Thanks to your website, quick turn-around service and customer's repair stories, I probably saved a few dollars but mostly, I realized how much I love my dishwasher now more than ever!
Simply had to replace the clips in the correct position. Would have been a five minute job if I had noticed which way around the old parts went before removing them from the dishwasher to find replacements. It's amazing hoe many permutations there were before it all fit together perfectly.
received new basket without a basket handle; had to remove handle from old basket & attach it to new basket; took 2 separate tries to remove old handle & each try took about an hour; used screwdriver & pliers but had to be careful not to break handle; eventually used dimes to pry open & hold the attached sections of the handle open in order to free the handle from the old basket; we sure hope the new basket lasts a lot longer than the 2 years that the old basket lasted before it broke.
I removed the screws holding on the interior door panel. This exposed the soap dispenser latch mechanism. After removing the two retaining screws I transferred the original parts to the new retainer and replaced the grommet prior to reinstallation of the mechanism and interior door panel. A savings of probably $100.00 or more for a service call and parts. Should last a few more years.
I removed lower cover panel. Removed two wires. (one on each end of the element. Removed two nuts on the element. Took out old part. Put new part in and reversed procedure. Works fine now.
The repair was very easy. The door gasket was a little short, but I gently streched it to the proper length. I replaced the other parts as a precaution as some others said they were really the source of the original leak. It went very smoothy and NO MORE LEAKS.
Removed the top rack and unscrewed the six screws involved on the rack adjuster. (Take note on how you took the thumb adjuster on top off for easier reassembly) Replace assembly on rack and slide rack back into dish washer. Kudos to PartSelect for getting my part here in less than 24 hours on a normal delivery charge.
Attempted repair was quick & simple. Removed 7 torx screws, and then pulled the wax motor out of its holder. Pulled 2 wires off, and replaced old motor with new motor. Reattached wires, & reassembled. Only problem was this did not fix the problem, so back to square one, but worth a shot.
We had tried to use dish washer cleaners, and they would work for a time, but we started spending more money on cleaner than we wanted. I ordered and then I replaced the lower spray arm. It took a little effort to get the top screw off, due to hard water deposits. The new one went on very easily, just screwed right in like the old one. It's working great and I really don't mind not getting a new one or paying for a service call!!!
First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.
Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.
Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.
The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.
Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.
Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops
