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The rubber end of the middle wash arm tube broke and melted when it fell onto the heating element
I unscrewed the wash arm tube from the agitator, and then unhooked the plastice holders that held the arm tube, pulling those parts out of the dishwasher. I took the new (one piece!) wash arm tube in hand and then realized that I would have to cut the plastic holder in half because there was no way to get the new (1 piece) arm tube through the plastic holder. I cut the plastic holder in half, fit it around the arm tube, and super glued the holder back together, allowing it to dry for several hours just to be safe. After that, I simply screwed the entire thing back on, and we were good to go. It could not have been easier, except for the unexpectedness of have to cut the plastic holder. Saved us probably at least $100 worth of service call and parts.
Replaced door gasget took 5 minutes tops. Ran cycle and still had leak. Called local repair person. After thoroughly checking out the dishwasher and running soapless cycle determined problem to be soap build up over time. He ran a commercial cleaner through a complete pots and pan cycle. No more suds and no more leak repair complete. Did not actually need door gagset but it was super easy to change and delivery service was great.
Installed pump kit. Was surprised the kit seemed different( some parts changed or deleted. Instructed to discard old parts and follow with new configuration. Reassembled and tried t fin it works fine now. Thank you so much
remove star screws holding inside door panel. remove plastic cover that protects latch assembly. hook one end of spring on stationary pin on inside of slider bar. Hook other end of spring on pin on slider bar. replace cover and door panel.
Prongs on Upper and Lower Dish racks were rusted and broken.
I ordered the upper and lower rack replacements PLUS additional wheels and other attachments because I could not tell from the schematic on the website whether or not the smaller pieces came with the rack.
As it turned out, the racks came ready to install and all it took was a limber nephew to take out the old ones and put in the new. Now I have plenty of spare parts in my own inventory in case the wheels, etc. need replacing.
I feel guilty sending you this repair story because all I did was order the parts on your website and then conned my nephew into making the exchange.
The parts arrived very quickly and in good condition. In fact, the new racks are an improvement over the ones that came with the dishwasher originally. Ms. Susan McNutt was quite helpful in keeping me informed of the status of the part that was back-ordered. It was a pleasure dealing with PartSelect.com.
Got the new door and tried to put it on. The door went on very easily. However, there's a spring that opens the door when the main wash cycle comes around. I never did get that spring right. None of the drawings showed the correct position and after an hour of trying to get it to work right, I gave up. The door comes open slightly (but not because of the spring) when it's time, and the liquid soap runs out due to gravity. But I wouldn't try to use soap powder because the door doesn't come open far enough.
I watched the video link sent in an email and followed exactly what they did in the video. I removed the star head screws holding the door liner in place. Then removed the protective cover on the inside. I disengaged the component holding the latch in place. I replace the component that holds the latch in place and then snapped the new latch in place. I turned the dishwasher dial until the prongs were fully retracted. I replace the protective cover and then put the door cover back in place. I initially only placed the left bottom star head screw until I was sure that the latch was going to release. I tested that it was working properly by slowly turning the dial on the dishwasher control. Once I knew it was working I replaced the rest of the screws.
removed old check valve from bottom of dishwasher and replaced with new one. I used channel locks to do this, disconnect hoses and screw out check valve, and put back in opposite order, make sure the dishwasher is empty of water or have a plastic bowl or such to catch water. Take off two front covers on bottom of dishwasher to access check valve ,white with hose attached.
water delivery tube was worn out. I ordered a new one
Old style tube was an assembly of 3 separate parts, so it could come apart to pass through the holder bracket easily. New style tube was a single piece. The moldings on either end are too large to slip through the holder bracket circular ring. Apparently, the newer style holder brackets have a slit or break in the ring. Not so with the older bracket I had. I merely cut my own slit at the top of the ring on my old bracket, allowing me to spread the ring wide enough to allow either end of the single-piece tube to pass through. There is very little pressure on the holder bracket ring - it's just a holster for the tube. So the slit does not affect performance. Job done in 30 min.
Bottom of dishwasher retained an inch of water after cycles complete. Had to pump out dirty water before starting new cycle.
Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.
Very noisy on heavy wash cycles started and stopped when filling
repair was very easy did need to go to the hardware store for and adapter for the hose to water inlet valve as mine had a smaller diameter connector. Otherwise followed both videos. Needed a shopvac to remove water in the bottom of the dishwasher
Mine is a Ultra Wash 111 I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg