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lower rack took one min. take out old slide in new
upper rack a little tricky had to remove end caps on rack arms to slide rack out to replace rollers. end caps are not snapped in they have a lever in the track that is part of the cap if you twist it a little cap will slide off. total time for this part 15 min.
Insufficient fill water, dishes not getting clean (valve diaphram had ruptured)
1. Remove lower cover skirt. 2. Shut of water at undersink valve. 3. Unplug power cord or turn off circuit breaker. 4. Disconnect water supply line from fill valve. 5. Unplug the electrical connector from the valve. 6. Remove the 2 valve mounting bracket screws. 7. With loose valve in hand, rotate to gain access to allow release of outlet hose clamp for hose removal. 8. Remove brass fitting from old valve and install on new valve. Use teflon tape on the pipe threads only.
Completely remove the door from the dishwasher - It's easier to work on this way.
First the spring tension is NOT that critical - the spring just needs to not be mangled and really out of shape. Unless someone has taken a pair of pliers to it, it should be o-k to use. I even mangled up the slot in the lever with a pair of pliers to try and jeery-rig it and it still works fine - you MUST at least have some resemblance of a groove here for the spring to catch. 1) hook the hook on the inside of the lever where the slanted groove is on the cam. (see your great diagram)
Put all the pieces together at this point, shaft,spring and lever
2) There are two sets of grooves that correspond to matching notches in both the lever and the dispenser shaft. Make sure these match up to one another. 3) Using a pair of hemostats or tiny pliers pull the other side of the spring clockwise - gently - until you can hook it on the stop that is on the inside door. There will be some tension of the spring around the shaft to cause the hook to engage to the slot in the plastic lever.
[*]This is where MOST of my problems were at:
4) Test the dispenser door to make sure when you close it, it springs back up. It WILL NOT hold when the door is off. [*][I was trying to get the dispenser door to stay shut while the door was removed from the washer - this will NOT happen] 5) If number four is happening above, attach the door to the dishwasher.
Very Important: The door will only stay closed when the dishwasher is in the OFF position. Otherwise it will spring open when you try to shut it, because it is suppose to because at this time in the cycle the detergent would be dispensing - hence the door being OPEN and the door not latching.
Note: This procedure assumes replacement of both eyelet cables. It is recommended that both eyelet cables be replaced at the same time.
1. Using a Philips' head screwdriver, remove the four screws holding the lower front panel (below dishwasher door). 2. Remove the faulty eyelet cable(s) hooked into the springs at one end and the door hinges at the other. 3. Take the new eyelet cables and hook them onto the door hinge on either side. Ensure a secure fit. 4. Guide the eyelet cable around the spinwheel on one side and insert the hooks of the springs into the eyelets. 5. Pull on the springs and insert their hooks into the eyelets of the other cable, ensuring a secure fit. 6. Test the door by opening and closing it a few times to ensure the spring has tension. 7. Replace the lower front panel cover removed in step 1 with its screws.
Dishwasher leaking at rubber connector - pump wash arm
First removed dishwaser from under counter so I could get to rubber connecter. It is located in center under dishwasher. I first needed to unscrew with wrench rubber connection at pump and and then the complete piece unscewed by hand from pump wash arm. I then just had to screw new rubber connector back on to bottom of dishwasher and re-attached at the pump. It was very easy to replace the rubber connector. I also replaced the dishwasher sump housing because it was made of same rubbber material and feared it was deteriorating also. I had to unscrew with wrench at pump as well and it just popped out from inside dishwasher after unscrewing screen inside dishwaser. Popped new piece in and screwed screen back on and reconnected underneath dishwasher back to pump. The rack roller wheel just popped right on. FYI: The wheel is actually 1.75 inches in diameter not 2 inches. I was worried it might be too big if it where 2 inches but it was the same size as the other wheels which was 1.75 inches. The hardest part of this job was getting the dishwasher in and out from under the counter. The good news is that most of these parts are standard and the replacement parts fit perfect.
Dishwasher leaks from bottom of door......when operated.
Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)
install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.
Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....
remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)
Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!
This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!
Opened package from Parts Select. Removed Silverware basket from package. Opened Dishwasher. Inserted Silverware Basket in rack. Closed Dishwasher. Discarded shipping package. Told wife I fixed Dishwasher. Sat down & had a beer.
Motor was getting noisier every time we used the dishwasher. We knew it was just a matter of time before it totally quit.
The most difficult part was removing the dishwasher from below the counter. Once that was complete, I simply turned the washer onto it's front surface to access the pump easier. Simply disconnected the electrical connectors, loosened the three hose clamps holding the hoses to the pump. Lastly removed a stiff arm bracket holding the pump. Reversed the order to install the new one using a longer bracket provided with the new unit. Hooked up the electrical connections last and slid the washer back in place. The washer runs like new now and is not making noise. The replacement part was a perfect match.
front twoo rack rollers broken ,bottom rack roller broken
for the top rollers you must remove thethe end cap. this was easy ,i placed a block of wood on the outside .placed the punch on the inside where the channel is pushed in to hold cap on. smacked it till it was pushed out far enough to remove end cap. new rollers simply snap on. very easy,
Top of the water spray "tower" was broken off by opening lower dish drawer and not checking to see if tower was in the down position.
Apply large vice like pliers at base of the lower spray arm and not applying too much pressure to plier as this is an all plastic part and slowly turn counter-clockwise until entire spray arm is loose enough to lift out and install the new part in the reverse order.
water coming our of dishwasher from upper part of spray arm water supply hose, hole in upper part of hose due to corosion
unscrewed 2 screws found on upper part of dishwasher that connected hose to spray arm found inside of dishwasher to remove hose. gently squeezed rubber gasket to work it into the hole found at the top center of the dishwasher, made sure rubber disc shaped gasket was seated properly into spray arm, screw spray arm back into place. The job was much easier than I thought It took about 20 minutes it saved me from buying a new dishwasher, the delivery of the hose was faster than the speed of light it took about i business day, I order the hose on saturday it arrived tuesday evening. Thanks for your excellent service
took dishwasher out- put on table to work on-removed wire brace- disconected drain outlet- disconnected top drive seal- removed wire clip connector- removed motor unit---------------- installed new motor/drain unit--used new longer wire brac used adapter to connect electical leads- tightened clamps and bingo it worked and didnt' leak. good job on the supplying of all the necessary adapers.
First I removed the dishwasher from underneath the countertop and laid it on its back. I used a nut driver to remove the pump support wire and the two clamps holding the rubber connectors to the pump. It helped to hook the pump support wire in a hole in the left side of the frame and reconnect it to the pump to hold it up out of the way. I was able to remove the rubber connector by hand and unscrew it. To install the new rubber connector tightly, I slipped a piece of 2" PVC pipe (outside diameter is 2-3/8") inside the connector and tightened the clamp around the connector and PVC pipe. This allowed me to use the pipe to tighten the rubber connector. I reassembled the dishwasher pump and connections and put the dishwasher back into service
Went to www.PartSelect.com. Part was easy to locate online with GE model number and illustraion online. They shipped the parts in two days and I put the new parts on by hand. Saved a $135 service call from GE. One part came in broken from the factory. Upon calling customer servce, PartSelect sent out a replacement part the next day - no problem. Great service, would be happy to use again - Thank you!