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Switchlight was broken on tennant's refridge
as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.
The evap fan, based on research, appears to be built to only last a few years. Pay attention to your order of removal for all pieces and it will go back rather easily in reverse.Remove items from freezer. UNPLUG FREEZER. Pop out the shelf. Use screwdriver to remove plastic piece in back. Pop out styrofoam piece. Use screwdriver to remove back metal section of freezer. Use nutdriver to remove screws holding the fan to the back. Unplug the motor. Pop off the fan. Pay attention to location of all these pieces. Put them on the new motor. Reassemble in reverse. Piece of cake.
This is a built-in unit. Remove the external bezel at the top of the unit. Reach through the unit and unplug the frig. On the compressor unit, you'll see a vertical metal panel. Remove the metal panel and the timer is right behind it. Remove one wire at a time and switch it to the new timer. Remove timer and replace with new one.
Just an added comment, GE Service wanted to put an "ice kit" into my unit. The full repairs would have cost $1,000. While I described how to replace the defrost timer, the problem was the tray heater. But that's another story.
Unplug. Remove back cover. Remove retainer (simple wire clip) from overload. Unplug overload from compressor. Remove two power wires (if stabs are tight you might need pliers). Note which wire goes where. Remove capacitor from overload (just pul it straight out .. Pull hard or pry a little with screwdriver. Insert capacitor into new switch. Reattach wires to same place in switch. Insert switch into compressor. Replace retainer clip. Replace rear cover with original screws. Plug in. Cool!
I noticed that if I unplugged the refrigerator and plugged it back in a while later it would start working but eventually would stop. I deduced the problem was likely the defrost thermostat. I ordered the thermostat but it was in a difficult place behind the evaporator coil which I could not remove. While I was trying to work it into position my hand pressed against the defrost coil and shattered the glass sheath. I ordered the coil and finally managed to get it and the thermostat installed. The refrigerator seems to work fine now.
Refridgerator wouldn't cycle into defrost mode without doing it manually.
I removed the shield over the timer and the part that supported the timer. Just unpluged it and pluged in new timer and put back shield. I had already replaced the defrost heaters which had totally burned up. I also replaced the thermostat while I was making the repairs although the old one was still o.k. All the information that I needed to make the repairs I obtained through your website. After looking at several websites to compare prices-etc, I found yours to be the best overall. Thanks-a-million your website is worth it's weight in Cold Food !
Refrigerator is not cooling. Light and fan working. Changed the capacitor.. Still not cooling. Back to discovery mode.It may be the timer Certainly not PartSelect's fault. They have great service.
It has been my experience that these motors sometimes die when the refrigerator is overfilled and motor strains to keep refrigerator cold. And this motor is used in several models of refrigerators. That said, sometimes the hook-up is slightly different between other units. The available video is good, but like I said, circumstances will be slightly different between various models.
After cleaning out freezer (plug disconnected first), start to remove outer plastic covers. If you want to keep track of the different steps, you can take pictures with your cellphone. And if there are any connecting wire attachments you think you might not remember, again, you can take a picture, or label with tape (colored tape, or by writing on the tape). And for keeping track of the different-size screws, I place them in a muffin tin, keeping an order of left to right and top to bottom in the tin. When removing Styrofoam blocks in bottom center, make sure you remove any remaining ice underneath in the hole so refrigerator can "breathe". Freezer air is moved below to refrigerator compartment, so a blocked vent hole will strain refrigerator as it tries to maintain its temperature setting and can be the cause of your failed motor.
After replacing motor onto bracket with grommets and blade, don't completely tighten. Position plastic cover with hole opening over motor and blade assembly. Twirl motor blade to see if there is any interference with cover. If not, take away cover and tighten motor on bracket. If there is any rubbing, adjust motor/blade assembly accordingly before tightening in place. Putting everything back together is in reverse order.
compressor motor running constantly and not cooling
Removed freezer bottom and back plates-encountered ice -melted with heat gun.Observed fan not running with fridge plugged in and considerable erosion of the styrofoam part.ordered fan motor and blade and styrofoam ducting and replaced same.Fan started running immediately when plugged in and now the compressor cycles normally and the refrigerator compartment is much cooler and icing has stopped. I'm good to go until the compressor fails! thanks for the excellent delivery service(2 days)and your parts diagrams really helped me trouble shoot the problem.
I had lost the bottom hinge during a move and so I rigged the hinge using an old tv antenna and the door never really quite worked right and it was VERY annoying. I stumbled upon this site and was surprised how inexpensive the part I needed was. I was very impressed with the speed of shipping and the install took maybe 5 minutes. The fridge works as good as new. Thanks a ton!