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Broken Water Actuator Paddle
You pull out the tray at the bottom of the space in the freezer door where the ice and water are dispensed. The tray didn't come out easily, but don't be afraid of breaking anything. It is a simple interference fit. Then remove the two phillips screws at the bottom of the face plate and lift it gently. It can dangle from it's electrical connector while you do the rest of the job. Remove three phillips screws that hold the rest of the assembly in place. No need to completely remove the assembly. Do not disconnect the water tube. Disconnect the power plug at the left so that you can pull it out a little farther and not have to worry about shorting anything. The water actuator is secured by two small plates with two phillips screws and there is a spring too. Remove the screws and plates. There is also an electrical connection. The wires were installed under a relay at the factory so I had to trace the wires, disconnect the plug, and then snip the wires to remove. It's crowded in there so you have to work it around to get the actuator out. Then replace it with the new actuator. Reconnect the electrical and make sure the spring is in place. Then just go backwards. Put the plates back on, reconnect the power plug, screw the assembly back in, put the face plate back on, and slide in the tray back in. You might want to test the water and ice after you reattach the assembly but before the face plate. I needed the hemostat when I dropped one of the screws into the assembly. Needle nose pliers would work just as well or just don't drop anything.
The parts came within 2 days. The delivery was great. I took the food off the door, then removed the top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid the door on a blanket on the floor. I then had access to the closing mechanism top and bottom that is just two plastic cams that lift the door as it opens. The weight of the door then is used on the cams to help close the door with the appliance level. It was very simple and assembly was just reverse order.
Water coming out of the ice maker when dispensing water from the door.
This issue was noted in the advice area as being a filter, or valve assembly. But it turned out to be a diode kit that was causing this issue. I don't know why I could not find this issue anywhere on line? When I received the diode kit there was instructions that noted exactly the problem I was having. The fix was easy just a few wires cut and spliced and viola fixed.
1. Took off the outer cover and water drip tray. 2. Took off the outer circuit board (DID NOT DISCONNECT it) 3. Disconnected the black paddle holder, but DID NOT DISCONNECT the water tube. 4. As I did not disconnect the water tube I had to very slightly east it PARTIALLY out. 5. There are two screws that hold the sides of the paddle legs in. To rempve these screws I used a phillips screwdriver. 6. After removing these two screws you can remove the broken water actuator. 7. There is a small plastic aligning tip on the left hand side wher the metal covers sit on the actuator fiengers. NOTE THIS NEEDS TO BE REMOVED as I could not get the left actuator fienger to pop over it. I removed it with a needle nose pliers. After removing the tip the actuator poped right into its slot. 8. You cannot hold the two screws and the covers so I used a little piece of chewing gum to hold the cover to the screw and the screw to the screwdriver. It worked great. 9. Then I put the unit back together in reverse order... it functioned better than before.
Removed 4 screws holding face plate onto ice bucket. Removed the 3 screws holding the ice crusher housing. Noted postion and rotation of teh s;ring loaded ice selecting rod. Removed broken crusher housing. Reveresed process for installion. Took for test drive. Operational...
This could not have been easier. I came to this website looking to see how much the part was before i called a repairman to come do it. I saw everyones instructions and decided to try it myself. To replace the ice maker you basically unscrew 2 screws, unplug the broken one and remove it. Plug in the new and tighten the screws to hold it in place. I would have been REALLY unhappy if i had called a repairman and saw that was how it was done. Could not have been easier
pulled old gasket out of groove in door. Put vaseline on slotted part of gasket that fits in groove of refri. door Put some vaseline on gasket surface that would be on the hinge side of door, so it would close with ease. Had no problems at all. Thanks
P.S. Sorry about not having the model No. The Part No was PS1991324 Magnetic Gasket for Refr side of a Freezer/Refrigerator FRIGIDAIRE There are no screws to remove on this model. Just start at one corner and begin pulling old gasket out of the groove of the door.
The repair was easy. The problem was the lack of explanation. This may help other customers. I was told by the virtual trouble shooting system that about 30% of the cure was to replace the water filter and 70% was to replace the water valve. I did both and still had the problem. People need to be told why they have to replace the water valve. The reason is this. The valve has a very small leak in it that lets water continue to flow into the freezer compartment drop by drop. Eventually, this freezes and clogs the hole , so no water can pass and thus no ice can be made.In either your web site or another they stated that it may freeze up here, but there was no connection to the water valve.It seemed like it was another topic. Its very hard to see the frozen area, unless you remove it from the freezer area. I wish I was TOLD TO DO THIS, after i replaced the valve It would have saved me a repair bill. I hope this helps others. Take care-Bill
Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.
The symptom was a fried power board located in the freezer door behind the ice/water dispenser. Replacing the board was fairly easy. However, the new board also cooked soon thereafter. I discovered that the root cause for this failure was a failed diode Part Number 5303918287. The diode is located in the wiring near the three water solenoids in the rear (lower right) where the water enters the unit. Unless the diode is also replaced, the board will fail again. Replacement of these components is fairly easy. One trick that work well for me during re-assembly was to use a long wood screw to thread up through the water dispenser panel and into the end of the water tube, and then pull on the screw head to gently feed the tube down into the dispenser.
This process was so easy. I put in the model # and saw the piece I needed immediately along with a picture of it that helped me confirm it was the right one. All I had to do is snap the shelf in when it arrived.
The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.