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Pump discharge hose leak.
Went to U tube found several good videos relative to the problem, suggest you do the same. Heavy rubber diaphragm seal retainer spring VERY difficult to expand, bought a replacement spring with less tension and it worked fine. Plastic clip at the back of the cabinet does not have to be removed. Squeeze it and it will unlatch to free the hose, The part supplied was an exact replacement for the original, it worked just fine. Good luck.
Very simple. Watched video. Pulled the washer out to get behind it. Turned off water supply, unplugged it. Unscrewed the screwesholding the top in place, slid top back, lifted it off. Used pliers to open the clamps holding the pipes to the valve - one at a time. And fitted the pipes to new valve, one at a time. SOME WATER REMAINS IN THESE PIPES, SO PUT A TOWEL UNDERNEATH TO CATCH IT. Removed the electrical connectors one at a time and fitted them to the new valve one at a time. Did same to the hot valve - not leaking but decided to replace it before it did leak. Reattached water supply hoses and electric plug. Tested the washer cycle to make sure no leaks. Put top back on and pushed washer back to wall. Apart from the testing, the whole job took 25 minutes. The parts arrived on Day 2 after the order. VERY PLEASED WITH EVERYTHING!
Unplug the washer! Turn off the HOT water valve. Remove the hot water hose at the connection on the back of the washer. Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the top of the washer. Slide the lid toward the rear until you feel it disengage, then lift it off, setting it aside. Unplug the electrical connector on top of the hot water valve (just pulls off).using pliers compress the hose clamp, slide it away from the hot water valve and pull the hose off the valve fitting(it will have some water remaining so lift it up and secure it to the brace above the hoses). Remove the two phillips head screws that hold the valve in place. Pull the valve toward the front of the washer to remove it and compare it to the new valve. To install the new valve, reverse all steps insuring tight water hose clamp and electrical connection. Install hot water hose, plug it in and turn on water. Test run and check for leaks. Unplug it and reinstall top.
Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.
From my research, I thought I needed to replace the Hall Sensor (also known as the Rotor Positioning Sensor). The Part Select site informed me that I might need to also replace the Rotor Assembly. The site said that I could not order just the Hall Sensor - I needed to order the Washer Motor Stator which would include the Hall Sensor. When I received the order, I found that the Motor Stator did not include the Hall Sensor. I found that I could order a part that matched the Hall Sensor I removed from my machine. I then ordered that part. I installed just the new Hall Sensor - the machine worked. I have returned the unused parts.
Moldy smell inside, door boot seal showed signs of mold
Watched several YouTube DIY videos and followed the step by step directions. I also disconnected several other hoses and cleaned them out. Since I live in an hard-water area, deep cleaning may become a 6- month preventative maintenance routine.
w/d repeatedly fills with water during warm or hot loads
E. Z. hardest part (which isn't hard) was moving the appliance to reach the back, then putting the appliance back into place. the actual repair (swapping out valve) took less time than that to do.
First unplug the machine. Turn the water off to the hoses. Remove the hoses from the machine to make it easier. Remove the screws from the back of the top cover. Pry the front sides with a screwdriver and lift. Standing behind the machine on the left side you’ll see the three solenoids or inlet assembly. Remove the two screws so as to take the inlet assembly out. There are hoses attached to the assembly.
The pump filter leaked after cleaning it out. Would work with teflon tape, but wanted to see if a new part would eliminate the need to wrap it every time.
Unscrewed the old part; screwed in the new part and said a quick prayer - LOL! The part worked great, but I wanted to mention how quickly I received the part! I would definitely order from this company again!
Water was collecting in the machine after it finished its cycle.
Turned off hot and cold water supply. Pulled out machine and disconnected hoses, unplugged power.
Unscrewed 4 screws at back top of machine (holding plastic bracket to cover). Pulled out trays from front where detergent is poured, and removed small screws under trays.
Slid cover back and up. This was the only tricky part. There are pegs that must line up with large holes in cover before you can easily lift cover up. Helps to look from underneath and find pegs on each side.
Using pliers, fully open clamps holding hoses to the inlet valves, and carefully pull off hoses while keeping clamps open with pliers… making sure to keep track of which hose goes to each motor. Take a picture of electrical connectors noting color and sequence of connectors on each inlet valve motor. Pull all connectors off.
Unscrew screws holding each inlet valve to machine. Put new inlet valves in place of old, and screw in place. Reconnect hoses (using pliers to hold open clamps, then slide clamps over tubing and inlet valve connector). Reconnect electrical connectors carefulljng lining up colors of wires and sequence using picture taken in previous step.
Replace cover. Screw all screws back to secure cover. Replace trays.
To put the new spring on requires two people. One to pull the drum up as far as possible and hold it in place and the other to attach the spring to the drum and the into the slot on the side of the washer frame. It takes a lot of leverage and strength to get the spring into the slot. We used a screw driver as leverage to get the spring extended to slip into the slot. You might also need the plastic holder part# 4930FR3040A. If the washer door boot has come off due to spring breaking, you will need to reset it. That requires also removing front panel. There is a large wire ring that holds the boot in place. You either need a special pair of pliers to expand the spring to reset the boot or a lot of strength to do it with a couple screw drivers.
