Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Dishwasher leaking from underneath from pump housing seals
Followed the helpful instructional video that is included in the installation instructions here on this site. Had to drill out impeller to remove it due to 20 yr. old dishwasher w/ signs of hard water attack on the motor drive shaft. New part installation was quick, once the old impeller was completely removed and internal housing was cleaned.
Before installing new parts, make sure to flush out & clean internal pump housing to remove any loose debris and/or signs of rust, and carefully clean motor shaft & seal seat surface.
Also found heavy limescale buildup and soap residue on pump seal grommet & seal surface on the upper lip of the pump housing. Grommet is discontinued, but it cleaned up well along w/ seal surfaces, after soaking in white vinegar and employing a light scrub along the circumference of the seal (Not radially or perpendicular to the seal surface).
It is a small plastic piece which serves as a stop on the right side of the upper rack. It is the correct part because it is identical to the left one of the same type. I tried clamping down with a pair of pliers but I am afraid of breaking it. With shipping this two inch piece of plastic cost $20, so I do not want to crack it. I am at a loss as to how to sit in in place.
Recently bought a whirlpool dishwasher, the dishwasher was converted to a portable dishwasher and they did not use the cord application power cord so they machine was blowing our breaker, instructions were very simple and installation was easy!
Top rack of dishwasher kept pulling all the way out
Our dishwasher's top rack would pull too far out which made it hard to stay in alignment. It had lost it's track stop. I easily ordered the part from PartSelect, and it came more quickly than I expected; I clicked it in place and it runs like new. It's wonderful to deal with a company that knows the frustration of not having your appliance in good working orfer. Thank you. Sue M Masdsachusetts
Could not take apart the upper rack on my whirlpool dishwasher to replace its wheels to transport its upper rack. The received parts did not match the old ones. Called parts and they suggested these new parts remanufactured and changed from the old ones but they had not been notified. Brought to professional mechanics and they figured it out. Bullshit parts company!!
I had to replace the whole sliding system on the top rack. Plus the clips holding it. It snapped. I watched the video and did the steps from Steve. The rack slides better than when brand new. Whirlpool wouldn’t pick up phone but part select did. So thank you for being there so I could fix the rack and be able to use the dishwasher again.
Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!
Getting the dishwasher out was easy. Getting to the impeller was easy. Getting the impeller off of the motor shaft was the difficult part. I had to use my Dremel tool with lots of cutoff wheels to cut the impeller off of the motor shaft a little piece at a time. It appeared to be rust on the motor shaft that was causing the impeller to not come off. There is not much room for the Dremel so be careful not to nick the pump housing or cut into the motor shaft. Keep the vacuum close by to clean out the plastic impeller shavings. Clean the rust off the shaft with steel wool, fine sandpaper etc. Assembly was easy once everything was cleaned up.
Pump impeller went crooked, apparently both from wear and moving the unit. Would not then stay in place.
Disconnected hoses (2) from pump housing. Disconnected pump housing from motor (3 allen screws, not too acessible). Unscrew spray arm from pump housing (this is done by hand; no tools as the "nut" is about 3" diameter and made of plastic) Open up the pump casing and replace impeller and the bearings on each side. The thing that takes some time is to mop the water that comes off at almost each step. There is probably an intelligent way to drain everything first. I did not order the large seal (kind of a large rubber donut, larger than a donut) between the arm and the pump and I shoiuld have as it was difficult to keep the old one from not leaking: Since by hand you cannot tighten the large nut very hard and tools could damage or break it. Applying upward pressure on the pump while tightening did it. (The pump and motor are all mounted on flexible mounts, like the heavy hoses connecting to the pump housing, so that there are no vibration.)
I poked the old gasket with a fork tine so I could get a grip on the old gasket as I didn't have pliars, pulled it out in less than 4 seconds, folded the new gasket in half and started center top of the slot the old gasket was in and pushed the new gasket in on each side from the top to the bottom. Very easy. I'd say it took me longer to open the package with my teeth than in doing all of the above.
