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Error Code F1
I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did some reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first
Oven would start to heat then quit,checked the temperature sensor with ohm meter after cool down reading about 1100 ohms. I cleaned connection tried it again seemed to work well but quit again in just few days.
Pulled range out from cabinet, removed back plate, two screws inside oven attaching the temp sensor. Then pulled the sensor and wire through from back. Reverse to replace about Ten minutes OEM parts plug in same, works great
Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws. Saved $150 on a service repair call.
unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!
The part I ordered has 5 connections and the part to be replaced has 7 connections. I had to ask a friend who is expert in electrical wiring to help.
My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections. Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.
Lenses wore down and broke off making the actual indicator lights fall down behind the control panel since the lights connect to the lens.
Pulled stove out and unplugged it. Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel. Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control panel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others. Replace back cover. Plug stove back in and slide back into place. There are you tube videos out there to help you.
Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely. Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
The original instructions were to replace burner and plug wires back in the same plug they came from. The problem is that the plug order had changed between parts. Use a pencil to highligt the plug numbers on both new and old plugset, to fint the new plug positions. And need to reorient one of the burners to allow existing wires to reach.
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.