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Cams on Hinge assembly broken, door didn't close properly
I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height. Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door. I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts. I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.
Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.
Was able to pull the door up to the normal position, then blocked in place with 2 2x4's. Easily removed the hinge assemble and the door closing cam, which had broken in two. bolted on the replacement parts in 10 mionutes and the door was a good as new: peice of cake!!!
All I did was take the old bucket out,, which had been frozen to the base, and I had to thaw out, by turning the refrigarater off , and use a hair dryer to melt the ice, after that I unscreewed the outer face of the old bucket, and replsced it to the new bucket
Once I received the New part, I simply removed the old one, unscrew the door assembly off of the old one and reinstall it on the new one using only 4 screws. Then simply pluged in the New Ice Bucket. If it were any easier, My Kids would have done it.
Removing gasket by pulling it back to expose 1/4" screws and replacing with the new one was easy. What was a HORROR- was that the new gasket doesn't seal against the door properly, and door doesn't want to close at all. to remedy this we had to put packing tape along the outer portion of the gasket all along the door to hold it donw, in order for the door to close. This is "possibly" becuase I overtightended the screws that hold the metal brace that holds down the gasket. Don't make this mistake and if you do, packing tape is the answer.
Disassembled front door/cover (3 screws), then removed deflection door assy, (4 1/4" nuts), CArefully and methodically removed C Clip and grinder teeth...Be careful with this step to document/remeber how to re-assemble! Auger repleced then reverse steps... All in all, not too bad, but you can easily screw up the teeth re-assembly.
Removed the top hinge and the door. Removed door stop held in place by 2 screws, installed new door stop. re-installed door and top hinge. Easy once the correct diagnosis was made It would have been nice if I could have e-mailed you the symptoms and received an accurate diagnosis. As it developed, I initially replaced the door cam before realizing that the door stop itself had broken.
I removed all items from area of refrigerator. I removed the drawers. I unscrewed the broken slide rail. Upper drawer had left side broken. Lower drawer had right side broken. I simply screwed the new slide rail in. The glass shelf didn't fit, so I took a pair of needle nose pliers and broke off a tiny piece on the slide rail that was preventing the glass from dropping in. (I checked the old one first and could see the same thing had been done) I screwed each rail in and dropped the glass shelf back in. (The lower shelf was broken and I ordered a replacement at the same time as the broken rails. I put the glass into the plastic holder of the old (broken) shelf and slipped it back in. Very easy. I'm a housewife not a repairman. I saved a few dollars on a house call.
Water line was broken at the bottom of the freezer door.
There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.
This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!