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I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.
Freezer Extremely Cold, Refrigerator Warm, Water Accumulating In Refrigerator.
After watching the video it was a snap. Defrosting the freezer took the longest time. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice. Once the freezer compartment was clear of ice the removal and installation were a step by step procedure which the video showed in detail. It's been about a week since I installed the bimetal defrost thermostat and it seems to be working like new. Sure glad I researched this problem on the internet instead of calling a very expensive repairman! Thanks partselect. Com!!!
Freezer would frost up then frig temp would rise to un safe tempertures
UN plugged refrigerator,waited 24 hours to let defrost,removed panels,cut out old Bi metal Defrost thermostat,wired in new thermostat,reassembled freezer,plug back in,working great
disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.
I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.
The repair was simple. Unplug the refrigerator, unplug the power connector from the fan and remove 3 screws. I removed the fan blade clip with the pliers and cleaned it off. Reversed the process, cleaned all the dust out with my shop vac and all works perfectly now. It took longer to pull the fridge out of it's normal position than to perform the repair. Every day it continues to work is one more day I don't spend $2000 or more on a replacement.
Light switch in the refrigerator was faulty from the first day we installed the fridge.
I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!
Fan motor making awful noise, not turning very fast
Fan was barely rotating. So unplugged, removed back cover, removed fan and motor from frame work. Removed fan blade from motor shaft. Spun motor shaft which seemed fine. Pryed off back cover of motor to find a large but dry felt washer and a helical capillery slot formed into the motor shaft for carring oil from felt washer to the bearings. Added 30 wt motor oil and some 3in1 oil to felt and reassembled motor, fan and frame work. Plugged in power chord after getting rid of dust and dog hear on coils and is working like new.
defrost tray & drain, pluged with ice in freezer section
poured boiling hot water into drain; removed most ice with hair dryer. Clips(2) positions the defrost tray & drain under the freezer condenser. A "home-made" coil of 18g copper wire inserted into the drain hole, & secured to the defrost heater further prevents the drain from iceing shut!
Heard a five second buzzing sound repeated 4 or 5 times per cycle coming from rear lower left compressor side.
Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.
Light switch which turns on the lights when the door opens went out
This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.
Refridgerator would not stay cool, eventually over burdened the freezer.
Over a period of weeks I watched my fridge grand to a halt. It was...saddening. I felt helpless, there was nothing I could do and I wasn't prepared to pull in a repairman. Upon it's departure from being affective (broke) I made up my mind to purchase a new one!! Flash-forward five minutes n the internet ...motivator by high costs, I altered my thinking and visited You Tube for a fix-it video. After a quick search I came across a clip that took me to the heart of the problem. It was THAT easy. Wow!! I followed the instructions and quickly learned the failure had to do with a small, light weight fan that's role was to pull heat from the condenser--it had ceased to work. While waiting for the part, I let a small fan blow on the condenser to dissipate the heat. The fridge roared to life!! Like a charm!! When the new fan body arrived I placed the blade from the old fan on it and installed it (the fan did not come with bolts and the holes were not threaded) using sheet metal screws. It immediately came started performing again and has been doing a superb job ever since. I easily saved $800 in costs going this route!!
