Models > KTRP20KDAL03

KTRP20KDAL03 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the KTRP20KDAL03

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Manuals & Care Guides for KTRP20KDAL03

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Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(83)
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$38.48
  In Stock
Capacitor – Part Number: WPW10662129
Capacitor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(39)
PartSelect #: PS11757023
Manufacturer #: WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor ...
$79.16
  In Stock
Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WP4387503
Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
PartSelect #: PS11742474
Manufacturer #: WP4387503
This is a bimetal defrost thermostat for your refrigerator. It stops the fridge from overheating during the defrost cycle by protecting the evaporator. This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperatu...
$42.49
  In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side – Part Number: WP2195916K
Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS11739204
Manufacturer #: WP2195916K
Sold Individually.
$10.98
  In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar – Part Number: WPW10421486
Door Shelf Retainer Bar
★★★★★
★★★★★
(18)
PartSelect #: PS11754563
Manufacturer #: WPW10421486
End caps are sold separately.
$71.67
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP488729
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11742721
Manufacturer #: WP488729
Metallic screw that is less than an inch long. Does not include the plastic washer.
$7.91
  In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
Touch-Up Paint - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.00
  In Stock
Hinge Bracket – Part Number: WP2183805
Hinge Bracket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS11739061
Manufacturer #: WP2183805
This hinge bracket, also known as a door stop, is attached to the bottom of the door and is used to limit how far the door swings out to protect the refrigerator itself, and any surrounding cabinets f...
$10.73
  In Stock
BULB-LIGHT – Part Number: W11338583
BULB-LIGHT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(25)
PartSelect #: PS12717432
Manufacturer #: W11338583
This is a genuine replacement light bulb for a refrigerator. The inside of your refrigerator should illuminate when you open the door. If your fridge does not illuminate, you may need to replace this ...
$48.72
  On Order
Screw – Part Number: WP489478
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11742754
Manufacturer #: WP489478
Sold individually.
$5.42
  In Stock
Light Socket Kit – Part Number: 4387478
Light Socket Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
PartSelect #: PS371236
Manufacturer #: 4387478
The light socket in your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If your refrigerator light is not coming on when you open the door, you may need to replace the light s...
$70.72
  In Stock
Condenser Fan Motor – Part Number: W10822259
Condenser Fan Motor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS11723170
Manufacturer #: W10822259
NOTE: As per the manufacture the part does not come threaded. A self tapping screw will need to be used to make threads.
$211.84
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for KTRP20KDAL03

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Common Symptoms of the KTRP20KDAL03

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Will Not Start
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Noisy
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Clicking sound
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Too warm
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Frost buildup
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Fridge runs too long
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge too cold
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Ice maker not making ice
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
Parts Used:
Capacitor
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
394 of 474 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Door Switch
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
118 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
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water dripping inside fridge due to drain hole being frozen over wiith ice.
first I diagnosed the problem with the whirlpool do-it-yourself repair manual, which was very easy to understand. as per the repair manual, "this part located on the evaporator or the back of the liner is used during the defrost cycle. This bimetal senses the temperature from the evaporator. When the temperature reaches 50-70 degrees (F) the defrost bimetal turnd the defrost heater off. " then I emptied the freezer. removed the the back panel to expose the evaporator. I looked for the bimetal defrost thermostat clipped on the evaporator. tested the bi-metal defrost thermostat, as per the manual, " the ohmmeter should show ZERO resistance (continuity). if not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing." NOTE: the bimetal must be cold. it is also tested with the bimetal warm/hot, by running it under hot water. i used a styrofoam cup with hot water & dipped the bimetal in. as per the manual, " the ohmmeter should show an open circuit. if not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing. then got online found partselect.com. ordered the part, recieved it in less than 2 days. within minutes after recieving the part, I removed the bimetal defrost thermostat and spliced in the new one. thanks to partselect.com my fridge is back up and running properly again. prior to installing the new bimetal, i tested it, as descibed above, you can hear & feel the bimetal open/close when it gets hot/cold.
Parts Used:
Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
  • Edwin from Maplewood, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
62 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
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