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Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.
Refer lights not working, there are two lights and neither worked. Decided the switch was the problem.
The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?
Got resistance values from partselect. Coil was not in range. I remove rear cardboard cover,shut off water. Valve located on right side rear. Hoses are quick release. Unplug wire harnesses.
Removed the cover to ice maker. Removed with 1/4 inch socket and the extension, the 2 Nutscrews holding the ice unit in place by bending down the plastic cross piece in front of the screws. Finally squeezing the electrical cover case to remove from the rear wall to get to the Electrical plug connection. Once cover away from the wall and new plug connected, the new ice maker was hung onto the upper slots and nut screws re-installed, again by bending the plastic cross piece for ease of securing the unit. Re-installed the cover and turned the unit on - it made ice like when the refrigerator was new.
water was leaking from the back of the frig. Issue was the unit that the feed hose screwed into was leaking.
At first ordered the wrong part. Using the website was difficult to find the correct part, but once I called, it was pretty easy to find the part needed. Part showed up and install was only a few minutes. No more leaking!
We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.
Water line cracked at the water valve and was leaking
I took off the broken tube and attempted to order a new one with the confusing we sight at parts.com- after 3 attempts I finally got the right part with help from the operator at parts . Com( nice and helpful) but had to ship wrong parts ( the 2 wrong ones) back. The parts were of good quality and we're not hard to put on
I took the cover off, and noticed the tabs holding the timer wheel were broken off on one side. after removing the wheel, I noticed the shaft from the ice lifters was broken. Since the only way I could repair it was to buy the entire module, which I did. I received my part in 3 days. When it came, I began removing the old module by taking out the three screws holding it. After replacing the module which took about 10 minutes, my machine was making ice within about an hour. My ice holder was full in 3 days. Albert Moran, Milton, Fl
I went onto YouTube to see how to properly replace the old gasket with a new one. The new gasket was softer and had a better upgraded seal design. Installation required me to CAREFULLY use the putty knife to push the gasket into the holding slot. This is also a better. more secure design. The corners of the hard plastic insert did need to be SLIGHTLY trimmed to eliminate some "over gap closeness". I did the work with food in the refrigerator. I suggest that you do an EXTENSIVE defrosting as ice will have probably built-up way beyond "normal" using the old gasket. I defrosted several days after installing the new gasket. I used a hair dryer, spent about a 1/2 hour from top to bottom and drained about 6-8 oz. of "Frost". I also only fill the fridge with food about 3/4 full. This provides proper air circulation and even cooling. I hope you found this helpful.
After pulling the fridge out and removing the dust cover over the lower portion in back of the fridge, I could see water dripping from the inlet valve between the water main to the icemaker and the water dispenser in the door. 1. Unplug the fridge 2. Place a towel under the fridge to absorb any over flow 3. Turn off the water supply to the fridge - this is usually at a tap valve on the cold water line. trace the line from the back of the fridge to find the connection point. In the unlikely event there is not valve at the tap valve or if it is inaccessible, turn off the main water supply. If you have to turn off the main supply turn on a faucet somewhere in the house to bleed the pressure from the line. 4. If the valve is tied to the frame or line , undo the tie or cut the zip tie (in my case) 5. Unplug each electric connector from the old valve to the new one. 6. The water connections are all quick connect so release the intake line by pressing down on the white ring and removing the tube. Press the tube into the new valve. 7. Repeat with each line going to the refrigerator making sure to plug each tube into the same outlet you pulled it from 8. In each case to minimize water coming out of the tube, hold your finger over the end while transferring to the new valve. 9. Verify that all tubing ends are FULLY pressed to the valve 10. Turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks. if some are seen turn water back off and repeat steps 6 thru 9. 11. Plug fridge in 12. Run water from the door faucet to bleed any air out 13. Clean up any spillage 14. Replace dust cover (if present) and replace refrigerator in place Piece of cake
Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.
