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Light switch wasn't working.. As I would close the door I would notice our frig light wasn't going off...
I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!
Unhooked water line from house to fridge then unbolted valve from fridge body then removed plastic water line from fridge to valve by pushing in on pex release tab then reversed process with new valve. Works like a charm. No more leakage. Wood floor is dry and Happy!
Ice maker was not making ice. Could hear mechanism trying to work, but no water getting to ice maker. Confirmed main inlet and drinking water solenoid valves were working. New water filter installed. Only thing left (or so I thought was the dual solenoid valve part (ice maker and drinking water valv
Removed lower back cover of refrigerator; isolated water at wall, removed existing dual solenoid valve and installed new replacement valve assembly. Replaced back cover.
Unfortunately, this DID NOT correct the problem. Frustrated to spend that kind of money on something that was not needed.
The lights were out in the part of the refrigerator and freezer section of refrigerator.
I ussed meter to check the voltage levels and they were fine. I refrence a you video on the refrigerator and foud out that the lights are setup in series like christmas tree lights. If the freezer light is out it will affect the rest of the lights in the refrigerator. I removed the freezer light module and test the light by swapping it with a know working light. the freezer light was the culprit that took the lights out in the side panels and the left side of the refrigerator section. I replaced the freezer light and all the lights now work without issue.
One light and they all go out. So i used one fo lights
changed the light bulb still would not work so I figured it was the switch sure enough.
I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.
Took lower back board off, took part off to expose it so I could see where it was leaking, got part number, ordered it. Shut off water to frig at wall shut off, unhooked both hoses and plug, hooked new part up, turned water back on. Watched couple days to make sure it wasn't leaking. Vacuumed out back good, which I was amazed didn't really need it, hooked part back in place, replaced back with screws.
The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!
Originally I took the module off and found that a small plastic part had broken. Both pieces were still there, so I super glued them together and reassembled the unit. It worked great for a couple months. I realized it needed a more permanent fix, so I found the model # and looked up the part. That was very easy on your website. I ordered the part expecting it to take 4-7 days. It was at my house in two days! 15 minutes later I was makin' ice, and makin' my wife happy. Thank you for an all around great experience. I'll definitely buy from you again.
The icemaker would not produce ice because the motor that pushed the cubes out had failed. The original icemaker failed in this way and we had the icemaker replaced by Sears Service for about $200. The second icemaker failed for the same reason after 18 months. I decided to do the repair myself t
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".
To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.
The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet. Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.
Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.
The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.
Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.
Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.
Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.
The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.
