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glass pane was cracked during the cleaning process
needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks
1) Shut off gas & unplugged stove. 2) Removed 2 front screws from the cooktop. 3) Removed 2 back screws from the cooktop. 4) Disconnected the gas line fitting from the 5 valve manifold. 5) Removed 2 screws holding the 5 valve manifold to the cook top. 6) Disconnected the 5 gas line connections from the manifold. 7) Removed the manifold. 8) Removed the ignitor switch assembly from the manifold and disconnected the wiring. 9) Installed the new ignitor switch assembly and shields. Shields were not part of the origional design. 10) Followed the above steps in reverse order to complete the installation.
Shipped on timely manner,I will order again from Part Select, installing was a 15 minute job, that what I did, 1 unplugged stove, 2) removed 4 screws, (2 on top bracket and 2 on back) , 3) slide unit out couple inches enough to disconnected the wires from each end of unit and removed old part, installed new unit by reconnecting end wires, pushing unit slowly toward back of oven until wires find it's right position, set it back in place with the 2 screws on top bracket and 2 screws on back, done!!
I just bought my first condo and sure enough something broke in my oven. I thought "Oh great - I'll need to buy a new one..." After some research and a friend's advice - I was assured that I only needed to replace the broiler element. After researching the issue I googled replacement parts which led me to this web-site. I was amazed how easy and inexpensive it was for me to replace the part. The directions were easy, simple, and spot-on! The instructions that were provided were easy to follow. I also utilized YouTube instructions as well for additional visual guidance. The shipping was super fast and the element was packaged very well. Thank you so much!
Two digits on the touch pad didn't work "9" & "0". Went to utube and they said hinges go bad causing heat to leak affecting touch pad
Pull range out 6 inches. Open door to 45 degrees and pull up to remove door. Remove both side plates, two screws each side. Remove both hinges by loosening two small bolts on the front of range that connect to the hinges. Place new hinges in place. Bolt hinges using bolts you removed, replace side panels. Slide door on hinges and push back range.
Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00 Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine. Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
PULLED THE POWER CORD!! Loosened a couple of screws holding the element to the rear oven wall, removed the electrical wires (red on left, yellow on right) attached to the baking element, removed old element, inserted new element and reattached the wires respectively thereto. One minor glitch did occur. The RED wire inadvertently slipped back through the hole into the insulation and was not retrievable. I removed the small metal plate housing the wires on the back bottom of the stove, pushed the red wire (plentiful length) back into the oven, reinstalled the plate, connected the red wire to the bake element, reconnected the power, element began to heat. Mission accomplished. One caution: Pay attention to the SHAPE of the failed element before ordering online or buying in person.
Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!
The rubber feet on the stove top grates were missing, so the grate rocked when you put a pan on them. The replacement feet did not easily insert on the grate. We ended up super gluing the feet to the grates to hold them on. We will see if it holds up.
I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.
I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.
We removed the rear panel, then removed the stove top, then removed the sides. We undid the straps that hold the insulation in place. Pulled out the old insulation and put in the new. Replaced every thing we took off. The nastiest thing was the old insulation full of mouse droppings and even a few dead mice.
Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
The much used, upper oven heating element burned out and needed to be replaced.
I pulled the range out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver. I then removed the two screws inside the oven that holds the element in place. I located the two wires on the back of the range attached to the element. I gently pulled off the wires using a pliers and then easily removed the burned out element. I put the ends of the replacement element into the respective holes, screwed them in and then plugged the wires back on at the back of the range. After replacing the back panel, I plugged the range back in. I turned the oven on with an oven thermometer inside, to test it out. I imagine I saved at least a couple of hundred dollars for the repair with this simple DIY, if not, the cost of a new double oven range!
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Remove the screw on the front of each side, also there are two screws holding the burner controls. Remove the burner knobs. There are two screws holding the burner head to the top of the burner panel, looking down on the burner head, these will not come out easily. Here's where the drill comes in. Drill the two screws head off, there are two gas line connections that must be removed, be careful not to twist the gas line. Remove the burner head and replace with the new one. When replacing the burner head, screw the gas line to the burner head first, then to the main gas control.