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Dishwasher would not switch on whenon/off lever was pulled accross
Switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher.
Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.
Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.
Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.
Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.
Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.
Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.
Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.
Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.
Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!
I yanked on the piece of twisted felt and pulled it from between the drum and the frame. Model number and serial number were gotten from the placard inside the door frame. A schematic was found on line and the part ordered from that picture. The whole thing is held together by four Phillips head screws. Two are upside down in the top of the door frame on either side. A hand held impact driver with a #2 Phillips bit was necessary to dislodge those two screws. The remainder of the job was done with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver. After the two upside down screws are out the top just lifts off. It's held at the back only by location slots. The two remaining screws are under the top on the extreme left and right of the front and face downward. These hold the front door panel onto the frame. Be careful when removing the front panel with the door on it as there are wires near the bottom left corner that must not be ripped out of the door panel. What remained of the old gasket was removed from the grooves in the plastic inner panel upon which the front of the drum rides. The new gasket was put in place in that groove. Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly. There's no reason to tighten down the two screws holding the top on with the impact driver when putting it back together.
Lower Front Felt Drum Seal failed and was flapping inside the dryer drum
Your site offered a video tutorial that removed any anxiety about doing the repair correctly. Removed front of dryer, disconnected wire assembly going to the front, replaced seal in seconds, returned dryer to original set up. simple. luckily. very easy to use website.
The repair was easy. First I took out 2 screws. Then I lifted off the top. Next I unscrewed 2 to take off front. I leaned off the front and reached in got out old gasket. Replacing new gasket went right around top front panel under the clips. Putting front on and returning 2 screws. Then Same for top. Dryer runs and sounds like new. Thank You for your quick mail and easy help?
Unplug the dryer. On the back, I unscrewed the top three screws that hold on the instrument panel and (from the back) slide the panel to my left to disconnect from the top. I opened the dryer door and removed the two screws on the inside top of the doorway to remove the top panel of the dryer. Inside the top of the dryer are two screws to remove so that I could swing the front panel of the dryer out to replace the lower front felt drum seal. I needed to use wd-40 on these screws. When the panel opens, there is no way to disconnect the wires to remove the panel, so I had to prop it up with something so it didn't tip over and damage the wiring; a sturdy chair worked. Then, I heared the drum pop off and drop down a little. I replaced the seal according to the video; by putting it in the groove and pressing it down into the tabs with a flat head screwdriver or something smooth with a little of the seal hanging over the groove at each end. While I was in there, I cleaned out the lint and the wd-40 I used earlier. Then I closed the panel, lifting the drum back into place, ensuring that the dryer drum would turn before and after I replaced the screws. I replaced the top panel and the screws inside the dryer door and slid the instrument panel back into place and replaced those screws. The dryer works great and very quietly now!
As I pulled each of the 3 bolts, I put a alignment rod into each of the holes. After I pulled the old deflector off, I had basically 3 pins/rods to slip the new deflector on and keep everything in basic alignment. Pulled one rod, reinstalled the bolt, so on and so on. Ran motor for noises or misalignment and had neither. Pretty simple repair.
Removed gas line. removed control panel, removed top, removed front, removed burner, replaced igniter, put back in. paused and played the video. very easy to do. 42 minutes and I had a few beers.
I actually did this in two attempts. First I tried to replace just the solenoid coils as they were cheaper and I thought they weren't opening the gas valve all the way. However, the noise persisted, so I had to spend the bigger $$ on the entire gas valve assembly. Finding videos on-line of how to remove the drum helped out a lot! Basically had to remove the console back panel, then the console followed by the front door assy and stop panel screws. Once the top was removed, had to remove a top drum brace which then enabled me to remove the drum once I reached underneath to remove the drum belt from the tensioner and motor. With the drum removed, I could get complete access to the gas valve assy. In retrospect, the drum may not have to come out to get at the screws that hold the gas valve and burner in place.
Good thing my husband is so handy. This part was very difficult to get to. Basically, he had to take apart almost the whole dryer. There is no access door so the side panel had to be removed, but before you could do that the front panel and door had to come off, then the top of the dryer. Keep track of the screws, we had a few leftover! But the dryer works great again and we hope to get several more years out of it. We've had no problems with it until now and it's over 15 yrs. old.
Took the back off/there were six phillips head screws. Took the protective cover off the Interlock Switches and found the problem. One of the buttons was jambed and would not move. I pulled the switch up and pulled the connecting wires. This took a little bit of doing as the connectors have been set for over 8 years. I used a pair of needle nose pliers. I reconnected the new switch and punched both switches and the washer started. It was an easy repair after that, putting everything back in reverse order.
First I turned off the breaker to the dishwasher. I then removed the bolts that held on the inner cover(note the two small bolts go on the bottom one on each side). I lifted the switch up and disconnected the wire clips from each side. I then put the new switch in place with the wires attached. Then replaced the cover and screwed it into place. Closed the door and flipped the breaker back on and turned the dish washer on and it started up. A very easy replaceable part.
