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2 rollers and end caps were broken were broken
Pulled the basket out the appliance and took what was left of the roller off and replaced them and slid the basket back onto the slide channel into the appliance. Then snapped the end caps on. Almost too simple. Less money than it costs to have the service man ring your door bell.
About 4 inches of standing water in bottom of dishwasher
First I replaced the flapper valve of of off the water pump. That worked for a couple of days, then the standing water was back. After more research at your site I ran across other person who had the same problem and they ended up replacing the piston and valve assembly. After pulling the dishwasher out I was able to find where these parts were located. The piston's rubber part was half gone. I replaced it and the gasket and another flapper valve. This model has two flapper valves. One difficulty was that you have to replace the screen inside the dishwasher before you replace the housing that the piston fits in. Your site and other folks contributing their stories helphed me to solve our problem. The dishwasher works like new now. Thanks. Ralph Naddeo.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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dishwasher didn't pump out water
with electric power and water source turned off,I first bailed out the water from tub then I pulled dishwasher out from under cabinet . Then I removed the motor and pump and put it on the table. I took a digital photo so I could remember exactly how everything was assembled. I checked for clogs and damage and realized that the solonoid casing had melted around the armature link assembly . I Looked at diagram for parts name and number and ordered from parts select. In the meantime I put a temporary one feed valve on hot water feed line so I could have access to hot water in kitchen while I waited for parts wich were here in a couple of days. Put it all back and it runs fine. Thank for your help
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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4" of standing water at the end of cycle
I unscrewed the check valve, tipped the dishwasher on its face, and removed the asembly below it. Then replaced the valve flapper, cleaned out the assembly (broken champagne glass and udder nasties) then put it back the way I found it. Then I put the new check valve on, and started the dishwasher up.
10 screws and $30 worth of parts saved me 400 bones for buying a new dishwasher.
If you have sanding water in your dishwasher check these two parts.....that check valve is the culpret.
Removed the dishwasher from the cabinet. Turned it on it's top side. Removed the exit hose from the pump with a nut driver and replaced the flapper. Reconnected the hose to the pump.
Once the new motor and pump kit arrived. I removed the dishwasher, turned it upside down and replaced the motor and pump with the new one per the directions. Difficulty came in feeding the electrical wire/plug back through the cabinets. Once done, turned on the dishwasher, filled the tub, then manually moved the dial to drian. The water still would not drain from the tub. I searched further for the problem. Here it is; Found the air gap tube was plugged with food. Once I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the air gap, the tub drained fast and everything works great. So, I hope you folks put this up in your troubleshooting section for others to check before buying a pump and motor kit. If you had, I would have been able to check out the air gap, clean it out first before spending $140.00 for a pump and motor kit I didn't need. Anyway, lessons learned..Jeff
The leak was coming from the drain valve shaft and I found the tips to replace the seal from this website. I was able to reach everything without removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Once I got the cam lifter off the old push on nut was corroded so it was easy to get off. The old seal was recessed so I used the point of an ice pick to gently pry it out. The new seal was easy to push in place but the push on nut was a bear. I saw other comments about using a deep socket to push it on but I didn't have one the right size. I was able to hold the end of the shaft with pliers and pushed the nut in place using a screwdriver. Ran a short cycle and no more leak. Thank goodness for this website. Found the part easily and the other written comments were very helpful.
I watched the video and did exactly what he did. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. I learn as I go. This repair went flawlessly. Ordering was quick and easy. The part arrived quickly. The repair took less time than expected. The part was what I needed and nothing else broke or went wrong when repairing the original problem. It was a 100% success.
Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.
The plastic hose chamber was damaged and leaked when dishwasher was in use.
First I removed the four screws that secure the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. Then I removed the four screws from the front cover at the toespace. Next I used an adjustable wrench to turn the feet to lower the unit enough to slide it out of the compartment. I unplugged the dishwasher and turned it on its side in order to access the hose chamber. I used a pliers to loosen the clamps at each end of the hose chamber and removed the the damaged item. Next I slid the ends of the new part into place and used the pliers to reposition the clamps. Finally I returned the dishwasher to an upright position, slid it back into the compartment, adjusted the feet to raise it to the proper height, put the toespace cover back on, secured the top of the unit to the underside of the countertop and I was good to go. No more water leakage.
dishwasher would not complete cycle, if you turned the circuit breaker off and thenback on, it would work normally once or twice
turn circuit breaker off
Remove 7 screws holding internal panel on door pull panel up and off,be careful to clear door handle through slot on front. Put a weight of about 8 pounds on the door to hold it open
Remove six screws holding the circuit board, and the small black switch assembly and the pop the control board out. Swap electrical connections from old to new board. Reassemble in reverse screws should be tightened with fingers on screwdriver only (metal in plastic)
Easy. I removed the dishwasher and all water from inside. After laying the dishwasher on floor, the valve flapper was installed using a pair of pliers. I then set the unit upright, and removed the rear screen from the inside back of the unit. This part has 4 nut screws, and runs the width of the unit. Under the screen, the Piston and Nut Assembly for Check Value simply unscrewed. When I looked at it, I knew this would do the trick. I simply screwed the new one in, and re-installed the dishwasher. After the first cycle, I smiled thinking of all the $$$ I saved.
