GLM25WGSAGS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The model we have, the front panel snaps into place. It was removed for access and the electrical connectors unplugged. Four screws and the chute assembly was removed. Removing three screws and opening the chute door allowed the solenoid assembly to be removed without removing the door assembly. All parts and area were cleaned and the assemmbly was the process in reverse.
Guideline to prolong recurrance: always put ice into glass first to reduce splashing of ice falling into liquids causing the solenoid armature to rust and stick.

We followed the instructions we found on this site.

First we unplugged the refrigerator.

Then we removed the control panel that has the ice type selection on it by releasing the three spring latches. These are accessible from the bottom of the panel looking up toward the ice dispenser. There are three holes. Press a narrow screwdriver or punch in each of these holes and then pull out the control panel. (Be careful not to disconnect the wires, but observe how the wires are routed.)

Then we removed the ice tube cover that covers the solenoid assembly. There were four screws. One was very rusty and it required some WD40 to loosen it. Once the cover was removed the solenoid was visible on the right. (It has a floating component that attaches to the "arm" of the flap. This is how the solenoid opens and closes the flap. The flap needs to close properly so ice does not build up in the door.)

There were three screws that had to be removed to get the solenoid out. (The top one you may just need to loosen once the bottom two are removed.) When the solenoid was removed we also removed the old floating component from the flap are and replace it with the new one. We slid this into the solenoid hole and then screw it in with the three screws.

Before we attached everything, we plugged in the refrigerator to test the solenoid. We dispensed some ice and waited to hear the flap close. (The flap close is slightly delayed so be patient.)

We attached the cover that was over the solenoid being careful to route the wires as they were when we started. We test the solenoid again. Then we snapped the control panel back into place and tested again.

We found that having the right size screwdriver made a difference especially dealing with rusty screws. It was also handy to have a good flashlight. Having extra hands was helpful to hold the control panel and cover while working on the solenoid and routing the wires.

First remove trim surrounding ice/water dispenser assembly. Use a flat spackle knife to obtain space between door and trim. Be careful not t scratch refrigerator door. Then pry trim off. This was the most difficult part of repair. The front plate of the dispenser is held to the back of the dispenser by two friction fastners and in the case of my refrigerator a phillips screw (some don't have screw in middle). Use a small round tool like an allen wrench to push up on the 2 fastners to release them. Next push the front assembley aside and remove the 4 screws holding the back part of the dispenser. Push that assembly aside. Remove the defective solenoid assembly by removing the 3 mounting screws. The solenoid base can be worked out by slipping it out of the solenoid assembly plunger still attached to the dispenser door assembly. Next slide the plunger off of the dispenser door assembly. Install new solenoid assembly by reversing this procedure.
Hint - I found the ice door assembly (wr17x11653) also needed replacement and it is well worth the effort to replace both at the same time.

had to remove ice maker and several panels to get to the fan. wires for fan encapsulated so had to cut old and new wires then solder them together while working inside the small freezer area. not too bad all in all took about an hour to get it done. no more wind thru the trees noise and is working fine

Unplugged the freezer. Then I gained access to the fan: remove the top freezer rack, remove the ice tray, remove the air flow manifold(needed to unscrew some screws), remove the manifold over the fan and cooling element. I unscrewed the fan mounting bracket. The fan motor's wires are plumbed through some plastic that i would have had to remove, so I decided instead to cut the wires and splice in the new fan motor. Then I put everything back together - the new motor works fine and doesn't make the whining noise.

1) remove the ice bucket. 2) remove light cover and bulb. 3) remove back panel with 2 screws. 4) remove fan shield. 5) unlug 2 elec connections. 6) remove fan housing. 7) extract wiring grommet and use exacto knife to slice thru grommet along the length of it to release wires. don't cut light wires. 8) cut up old fan/light electrical plug to free wire nubs for light. 9) install nubs in new fan plug. 10) remove old fan motor, pull blades. 11) install blades on new fan moter and install fan into housing. 11) reinstall

Squeezed a flat blade screwdriver between the faceplate (buttons and lights) and the plastic part behind it and the front panel popped loose. I unscrewed the 4 cross-slotted screws on the panel behind the faceplate and could easily see the solenoid. I released the solenoid connector from the printed circuit board and removed its 3 screws. It slides out. Replace with new part in reverse.

First I unplug solenoid from board. I then removed 3 screws holding it in place. I removed bad solenoid (it was very apparent once I took it out). I placed the new solenoid in place, replaced the 3 screws and plug the cord into the circuit board. Success!

First I used an ice pick to punch the tabs under the control panel to remove the ice/water selector panel. Then I used a phillips screwdriver to remove the solenoid switch. Unplugged the switch and re-installed with new one I received in 2 days and shazaam it works like new.

Used awl tto release the front panel. Used screw driver to release the solenoid. Ordered a new solenoid. Reverrsed the removal

I was this close to calling a repair man when I stumbled upon this site. I would not have been able to attempt this relatively easy repair has I not seen the posts from people with the same problem. It was simple to pop off the cover and replace the selenoid using only about 8 screws total. Thanks to posts by other DIY'rs it was an easy job--this site is Great!

Using a small phillips I removed the plastic module containing the ice/water selection buttons by sequentially inserting the screwdriver into 3 holes just underneath the module in the chute opening and pushing up on the tabs while pulling out on the module. Pulling the module away exposes 4 screws that are easily removed allowing you to remove the chute assembly. The solenoid is removed by removing 3 screws and pulling the clip containing the solenoid wires off the electronics board. Reverse the process to replace.

Removed controls face plate by inserting small screw driver into small holes located below the face plate releasing internal fastening catches and permits you to pull the face plate down and out toward you. Remove the electronic panel now exposed covering the solenoid by removing the 4 screws in the corners. Detach the electrical connector leading from the solenoid ( It may be prudent to unplug the refrigerator as a safety proceedure). Proceed to remove 2 screws holding the solinoid. If the sollinoid is corroded and difficult to remove and disengage from flap(door) controling the ice shaft aperture, it may be necessary to remove the flap by removing 2 small screws holding it in place. Be careful to note the small spring on the left hand side of the shaft which the flap rotates around since it to be re installed in the proper position when the parts are reassembled since it closes the flap after it is opened by the solonoid.
Reconnect the parts and and snap face plate back into place. Good Luck

Remove dispenser assembly in freezer door & replace solenoid.

Removed food from Freezer, Unplugged refrigerator. Removed light bulb cover and ligt bulb. Unplugged and removed Ice maker and motor. Removed air duct cover from motor. Unplugged and removed evaporator housing and fan. Pulled fan blade off. Unscrewed brackets from fan motor, removed dust cap from top of motor and grommet from bottom. New motor came with 6 pin connector and four pins for evaporator fan motor. Cut the harness grommet to separate the light bulb wiring from the evaporator motor's. Pushed the the old light bulb pins (red and orange) from old connector and push them in to the new fan motor connector. Reversed the process and no more noise