1. Take a picture of the old rack in the dishwasher! Just in case! 2. Remove rail channel end caps and place them on the tabletop on the correct side to make sure you put them back on the correct side. 3. Remove old rack. 4. Carefully snap off the water sprinkling unit. (carefully push down tabs so they don't break). 5. Using your picture as a reference (!) snap the water sprinkling unit on the new rack (it's easy). 6. Put the new rack back onto the rail channel and replace the end caps.
Done! Very easy installation ! Rack was not nearly as expensive as I anticipated and was delivered quickly. Note: You get the rack only. All ot the other parts are from the old unit.
Simple answer- do not try to do this. GE makes you replace the entire door to replace this $3 part or call them and pay $100s to fix it. We decided to replace the entire dishwasher after we went through disassembly (there are no instructions on this) only to find out we could not fix without a brand new door.
YouTube search indicated the common problem was the Dishwasher Electronic Control Board, part # WD21X10537. YouTube was wrong. $83.76 mistake. (not Parts Selects fault) I continued my search and stumbled on JustAnswers.com for $38.00. They diagnosed the issue by me describing the lights that were blinking and for how long, and quickly told me the door latch is not registering. However, said it is rarely the door latch, but rather the Electronic Control Board, part # PS12726419 for $105.90. What the heck, I'll bite. Bought both parts at Parts Select, quick shipping, solid packaging and good return policy (learned from previous experience). I did not return the 1st part, figured it probably wasn't long for this world anyway. Dishwasher is running fine again. The combination of JustAnswers.com and PartSelect.com is far better than an extended warranty. Extended warranties last 3 yrs in most cases and cost as much as I spent. Someone with smaller hands could have done both repairs much quicker.
I replaced the User Control and Display Board and it is working very well now. The important things that should be noted are to take off the door and to open the door cover by unscrewing it. Those screws are located at the bottom of the door and two are hided inside.
Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.
Board did not work. The socket for the jumper pins wasn’t installed on the board. Not sure if it was the correct unit. Decided to forget about doing a repair and just replaced the unit
The dishwasher rack was supposed to come with wheels it did not but I was able to use the existing wheels from the lower rack and snap them on was pretty easy
-Disabled power. -1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate. -Unplug wires harness to door -Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches -uncouple spring pulley from door hinges. -Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove -Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door) -remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door. -Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal). -Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order. Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate. -Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.
I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.
I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills
The repair is easy for most if you have basic skills.
1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)
2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.
3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.
4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)
5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.
6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)
7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.
8. Carefully slide out the unit.
9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.
10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.
11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.
12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.
13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.
14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.
