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Pump would not drain tub
Repair went fine, getting the right pump was the problem. I started with my local appliance parts house, they ordered part came in 3 days. Upon picking it up I noticed that the pump was shaped slightly different and the electrical hook up was totally different. Asking the parts guy what happened he said they must have sent the wrong pump. Returned it for credit and ordered it again. Four days later the same exact thing occurs. Parts guy credits my account and says better go directly to GE. Wait 10 days for GE, for this part and once again same odd looking pump with wrong electrical plug. My son who is a welder by trade asks me if there is a packet of parts in carton and yes there is. He says that perhaps there is a converter for the electrical. That was the solution no one told us that pump was universal and needed the adapter. Not even the 2 different tecks at first house. Perhaps that should be stated in the part would have saved us tons of time. Thanks D
I checked all the drain lines and filter for blockage. All looked good. I unplugged the unit and unscrewed the two screws adhereing the dishwasker to the counter. I shopvacced the water out of the bottom of the unit, slid it out, and carefully placed it on its back to access the pump. I unplugged the power to the pump, removed the intake and outake ring fasteners. Carefully removed the pump and inserted the new part, mopping up water as I went. Replace the rings, plugged in power to the pump, righted the unit and put it back. Replaced filter with the one that came with the kit.
Doesn't complete dry cycle, no clean light, random noises as if door was closing
Removed toe kick. Removed door counter weights and placed door on soft surface. Removed two bolts(I was able to leave hinges in place) slid door panel down and off. Removed plastic snap fit cover and 4 bolts from UI board. Two of the stand-offs where broken, glued them back into place. Ensured jumpers were set to my model, snapped cover back in place and remounted door. The dishwasher now runs through the cycle and clean light but did not dry. That turned out to be a bad flood switch.
Drain pump would not work. Water left in the bottom of the dishwasher.
Dishwasher is under 2yrs old and suddenly failed to drain due to the drain pump not working. I read the reviews on how easy it was to change and went ahead and purchased one. After removing the screw from the appliance bracket under the counter and the two screws from the base plate, it was easy to pull the dishwasher from under the counter and away to flip to its side. I would recommend draining the drain hose first and making sure no water is in the tub. Keep a towel nearby. Removing the drain pump was simple. I needed a nose tip pliers to remove one of the hose clamps and a screwdriver for the other clamp. Once the pump was removed, I opened the old pump by twisting the top part while pressing the tabs to remove upper housing. There was a broken piece of glass that had wedged itself in the mechanism which prevented the pump from working. I wish I had checked that first, before purchasing a new drain pump. I kept the old pump as a backup for the future. It took no more than 20 minutes to get the pump replaced and the dishwasher back in place. Dishwasher drains just as new. By the way, costed under $100 with delivery. An appliance repair company wanted $250!! Not the first time PartSelect saved me money and won’t be my last!
Replaced heating element. This was the path of least resistance but the problem persisted. I tried resetting the dishwasher but still nothing. My last resort is the circuit board. I checked the relays on the old board and they are fine so it must be something else on the circuit board. The dishwasher is not really that old (4 years) and everything else is fine. Just ordered the board so I really hope this fixes the problem.
No washing action during the wash cycle, the machine still filled and drained
The installation is fairly straightforward, basically one plug in electrical connection and two plumbing connections. The smaller of the two plumbing connections can be tricky because of the hose clamp... The original clamps are one time use crimp style. The replacements are standard hose clamps, which means the section where the tension mechanism is, is a bit wider than the clamp itself... This can cause the rubber collar on the dishwasher to slide off/separate from the pump part itself when tightening the hose clamp. If you are careful and align things just right, it will work like a charm. The best advice I have is to take your time and make sure the connections are snug without being too tight, otherwise it could leak and/or something else could break.
Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.
damage to gasket (had a slit in the area of the utensii baskets. causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...
As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of "Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.
I watched a step by step video provided on the Fix It app. Easy to follow directions and only took minutes to tear apart and put back together. Didn't even require help from my husband. Although the latch and striker were not the problem, contacted parts select and they then recommended the electronic control board, they ordered it, had it shipped to me within a few days, another really easy fix I did using the You tube video. Fixed the problem lickety-split. I will never go without my fix it app. Entered all my appliances. Sure beats spending hundreds on appliance repairmen! Thank you Parts Select!
Don't remove the door! Unscrew the bolts at each lower corner of the door(this is how the door is attached to the hinges so it is now free). Then open the door fully and slowly pull the door toward you a few inches. This slides the door up the hinges and allows just enough room to slide the old gasket out and and slide the new one in. Then slide the door back down the hinges(pushing it away from you, back into place). Then simply close the door and reinstall the bolts at the bottom corners and all done! I watched several videos and believe me, removing the door to replace this gasket does nothing but turn and small quick repair into a large lengthy one.
No power to user interface. User interface was beeping for weeks before it powered down.
*Unplug the dishwasher. My drain hose was long enough so no need to disconnect. Access the motherboard and found a solid green light. This indicates the motherboard is not communicating with the user interface.
Door removal: - removed kick plate -unplugged door wire assembly and wire harness clip -Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pull dishwasher out about 6 inches -Detached pulley rope assembly from door hinge -Open door about 4 inches and pull up and towards me. -Lay the door down, removed vent cap and four T20 screws from the side bottom, remove two 1/4 inch bolt from each hinge(the hinges have four bolts, but only to need to be removed) -push up on the plastic inner door from outer door and set aside. -Unscrew four 1/4 inch bolts holding user interface and unplug wire assembly. (The two middle screws are longer than the two outer screws) -be sure to ground yourself before touching the new user interface board -read the instructions for the new interface board clip positions(mine was already position correctly) -Assemble the door and be sure to connect the wire assembly and harness clip.
Strange noise coming from the dishwasher, later a small leak appearing underneath
A noisy dishwasher and water coming from underneath was being caused by a torn hose that is factory connected to the diverter. It was a little difficult to see at first as the hose sits slightly kinked when in it's normal position. Access to the diverter involves removal of the circulation pump. I ordered a new diverter which comes with metal screw on clamps. The main difficulty in installing is the positioning and alignment of the diverter and pump. My first effort resulted in a ripping of the attached diverter hose as I attempted to secure. I ordered another diverter. This time I used a lubricant to allow movement of the connecting hoses and made sure to not overtighten the clamps. I used a small mirror to make sure that the various hoses sat properly. Alignment took a bit of time. I then gently tightened the hoses. I ran the dishwasher, and found a leak, meaning that I needed to tighten these clamps a bit more. This is a doable repair that needs patience. The dishwasher is now very quiet and runs great!
Repair was simple, lower rack just remove and replaced with out any tools or disassemble required, for the upper rack installation, the end cap need to be removed out of the sliding tracks, slide old rack out and discard, clean the track with a suitable cloth and slide new rack in to the tracks, reinstall the old end caps, as a good preventing measure, order new end caps just in case they are need it if the old ones crack during removal. save old rollers from old racks for future repairs
Online instructions said to remove door. Found no need to. Only need to release one hinge by sliding door upward after removing 2 screws at bottom edge of door which releases both hinges. With door lifted just pry out old seal (it will be stuck so use a strong screwdriver). Then slide new seal in place. Lower door back down on hinge. Job done.
