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Couldn't figure out how to get the old one out till I saw the new one.Pop the old one out slide the 2 wires on the new one pop it back in place,good to go.
Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.
I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.
The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..
Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.
The door switch was broken so the interior light would not come on.
The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!
recently cleaning the fridge , we broke a piece of glass , not affixed to a frame
ordered the the glass using the schematic provided on line , was very easy & conveniant to have the parts delivered right to your doorstep. Highy recomemend this service & will use again in the future.
Refrig. was not holding proper temp in refrig compartment
Remove light lens by pushing straight back (needs some oomph, but not too much). Remove control housing by prying spring clips in back of housing with thin screwdriver or knife. Remove old control board by releasing plastic clips on both sections and removing 2 wiring plugs. Be careful snapping new control board in ; the alignment of the 4 switches and the 2 readouts is critical - easy to hang up a switch. Snap the control housing back into place, making sure that it is all the way in. Position the light lens so that it is lined up and about 1/2" back and then slide it forward (toward you) into place. The instruction sheet calls the refrigerator section the "fresh food" section. There are 2 light switches, one for each door. Both have to held down to get light to go out and enter programming mode. Easiest to close the right door, then push left door switch and quickly push the freezer DOWN button 3 times. Follow the instructions to set the program on the display and then push AND HOLD the freezer DOWN button until the display starts flashing. Release the freezer DOWN button, close the doors, open the doors to check. Display will indicate two 4s. (that was what mine indicated). Done.
original ice bucket plastic slides onto rack broke and wouldn't support full ice load
On several occasions the ice bucket had fallen inches onto other frozen foods and the auger wouldn't work. After dealing with this several times over a period of several years, I decided to see if I could locate a replacement which I did through your company; We took the old one out, unsnapped parts and then snapped the new bucket to the gate and shazzam, we were able to slide the new bucket into place and it works like new. Hopefully a repair won't be necessary again!
Frost and ice was building up on the top of the ice chute inside the freezer
There is a plastic flapper valve that is spring-loaded in the closed position that prevents ambient room air from entering the freezer compartment via the ice chute. The Ice Chute Seal is a simple flexible (rubber-like) disk that just slips over the circular flapper valve. With the freezer door open one can see the flapper valve down the ice chute and one can reach it easily from the outside of the freezer as well. The Ice Chute Seal has 3 notches that make it very easy to remove the old seal and replace it with the new seal. This can be done by feel. I removed the old seal by pushing the flapper valve open with one hand (from the inside of the freezer door) and could then peel off the seal surrounding the flapper valve with the other hand. Once the old seal was removed I slipped the new seal around the flapper valve. No tools required, no screws needed to be removed. The problem I had with frost/ice build-up was solved; there is no more ice/frost build-up inside the freezer near the top of the ice chute. The old seal LOOKED OK but was obviously a bit too stiff to seal the opening against the warm, moist, ambient room air. I was most happy to see that this solved the problem and that it was so easy to do (really less than a minute or two!).
