Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
motor had loud bearing noise
There are some really good blow-by-blow descriptions on how to go about the repair already listed here. The main thing is to go slowly and take your time. It was really quite logical for a weekend handy man. The best advise was to use a digital camera to record every step of the way as you disassemble the dryer. I referenced the pictures more than once when I was putting all of the wires and pieces back together. Also, I didn't have a pair of snap ring pliers. My neighbor told me how to use two ice picks to poke in the tiny holes and spread the rings...just be careful! Keep a vacuum handy, there will be lots of lint to clean up. The new motor, belt and pulley work great and I pleased with how well the repair went.
Dryer was sweaking and rumbling. Found tub support roller and shaft had failed bushing.
My wife had to help me due to a recent back surgery that I had.
1. Disconnet power. Then if you have room, slide dryer away from wall far enough to tilt it slightly back. We had to do this to remove the two lower front panle philips head scres due to my screwdriver length. If you have a stubby, then you don't need to do this. Remove by pulling out on bottom until the two clips at top disengage from dryer top panel. 2. We removed the four 1/4" head sheet metal screws that hold the front tub support panel (with lint screen). Be carefull of wiring. One moisture sensor wire has to be removed from front cover on lower right side near bottom of tub opening. The remaing wires on left side are long enough to leave them attached and "swing" front panel to your left and in my case, lay it back uprite against the washer front. 3. We slid the tub forward enough to lay old belt down so I could see how it was routed around drive. I wanted to verify paperwork that came with new belt. We then set entire tub out of dryer. You might want to take it to another room if you laundry room is cramped. 4. We removed the nut from back of each support roller shaft, I believe it was 3/8 hex. Then reveresed this procedure to install the new roller and shaft. It was easier to assembly rollers before installing as a unit. 5. I removed the old belt and confirmed its length to new belt. I then installed the new belt over drive sheave and tensioner. 6. We then installed the tub and worked belt around it while keeping it on the drive sheave and tensioner pulley. Had to kind of stick my head into tub to start belt unto it. 7. We checked tub front and rear felt seals and I would recomment\d changing these if your dryer is older than 10 years, we did not have then so kept old ones. 8. We replaced the front tub support and installed the four sheet metal screws. 9. We replaced the front cover and installed the two lower philips head screws. 10. Re-connected power and tested operation.
The door latch had broken, and it was time for a new lint filter.
The directions for the door latch kit told you to take the front of the washer apart to remove the old latch. But in my case the latch was broken in such a way that was not necessary. The new part just popped into place! No more fridge magnets holding the door closed!!!
And the new lint filter is great, the old one was so gunked up with old lint it was becoming difficult to clean.
I don't really know how old my dryer is, I purchased it used about 3 years ago.
It took me a lot longer to plan the repair and decide to do it than to do the actual work, knowing what I know now, and having the parts, it would take less than half an hour. As there are no repair manuals available, it took one of these reports to give me the confidence I needed to proceed. I first found out how to open the front (only two screews on the underneath part of the front cover) and opened it to hear the noise, (just put the cover to one side while still connected to the door switch),,,,, sprayed some WD40 all over the place and the noise went away temporarily (DO NOT DO THIS as the oil will burn off on top of heater unit and smell and smoke). I replaced the roller that the drum sits on (above the heating unit) to the right of the drum and the belt. You need a special tool that fits into the little holes in the ring retainer, I got it at Lowe's ($20 +/-). It is a Channellock plier that opens when you squeeze, you have to change the points (comes with it). So, here is the squence: remove the front panel, disconnect the swhitch (it took some pulling), set aside; remove front drum assembly (only four screws looking at you) and it comes right out; the Drum is light and comes right out as well, it just sits in a dry channel. The belt will fall off.... take the retainer ring off the roller with the special tool... remove roller and replace with new washers (one on either side) replace the ring retainer (recommend getting new one) with same tool. If you remove the small panel in the back of the washer it is very eassy to replace the belt.... I did replace it although the old one looked almost new .. instructions and a diagram come with the parts you buy here by the way... which they should say... place belt on drum per instructions (solid side down), put belt inside the chanell on drum (it will climb to the correct position by itself) put on drum front cover to hold drum in place, and then sting belt on pulley from the back of the dryer. (diagram comes with belt otherwise look at it before taking off the drum) Replace front panel (after reconnecting switch) and you are off (if you want to test without the front panel you have to touch the switch wires to each other (use tape) and do not do plugged in... After much anxiety but not that much work the dryer runs great and is as quiet as new.... I took the parts off before ordering by the way.... the order came within three days... I am happy to have PartSelect.com .. Maytag had not clue this model even existed.... Thanks
#1 First removed two screws at the bottom of the front cover Pulled the bottom out first to loosen the top and then gently pulled down to remove front cover. #2 took a duster to remove the dust and cob webs:) #3 Looked at the parts and then removed the heater element I used a SHORT nut driver for that. #4 Once removed I inspected the parts farther to look for more damage (there was no more) Now the fun part... #5 The heater assembly. go's into the hole at an angle. You MUST be really tiny or have freakishly long arms to reach the back and screw that screw in. #6 have wife with small hands that wants to try while you vent your frustration because you cant reach the screw hole and you lost a screw. #7 Be ready to push hard on the assembly. while you screw the screw back into the hole. #8 put the front of the heater back on.....check to make sure its all in there and hooked up like it should be. #9 put front cover back on. #10 dry clothes, and wonder why it was so hard. knowing is half the battle, Its going to be a 10 min job next time.
electric dryer stopped heating - the thermostat got very hot
The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.
Not certain as to reason for no heat, I first completely disassembled the dryer. This probably wasn't necessary but since the dryer is around 28 years old, I wanted to inspect and test all wiring, thermostats, etc. Testing revealed that it was the dryer element and it was quite easy to remove and replace the entire heater assembly.
I'm glad I completely dissassembled the dryer because it gave me a chance to clean up a few decades of lint accumulation on and in every part. Reassembly was a little more problematic as it takes a couple of extra hands to hold and align the drum and the top once you've reassebled the base, sides and other parts. Not overly difficult, just make sure you note where all the wiring is to be reconnected and save the screws and bolts in a baggy until you're ready for reassembly.
Other than waiting for the part to arrive (3 days) time spent in dissassembly and reassembly wasn't much more than a couple of hours.
dryer would keep running and never dry close. No heat.
Unplugged the dryer, Very important, there is voltage on on of the wires to the heater. I first removed the 2 screws on the lower part of the front cover and rotated this out of the way, no need to disconnect any wires. removed 2 small screws that hold the heater assy. cover plate and the one screw in the front bottom of the heater assy. I then removed the one screw at the top back of the heater. this completely frees the heater assy. I then removed the push on wire from the thermistor and the other wire from the lug and I transferred the thermistor to the new unit. Now it is time to reverse the process making sure the entire circumference of the heater assy goes into the hole in the back. This can be a little tricky if the new assy is out of round. Just work it in, it will fit. Very easy, only about 20 min from start to finish...
Removed back panel of machine which exposed badly worn idler pulley. Have had problem before on another dryer so I was sure what problem was before I started. Removed snap washer and cloth washer and then bad pulley.(It was very worn and wobbly).Cleaned shaft with small piece of emery paper and put two drops of oil on shaft and replaced old pulley with new one.Put back washer and snap washer.Drive belt had slipped away from its proper position so I had to remove the front panel of the dryer to place the belt back and realign it on the drum and around the new pulley and the motor drive shaft. Not really that difficult.....Machine now runs like it's brand new.....
Drum would not turn, drive motor humming loudly and unable to turn drum/blower wheel
The repair video is terrific and many others here have thoroughly described the steps involved to replace the drive motor.
The biggest hurdle for me was that the motor came with a new switch that required a different wiring configuration. No wiring diagram was included. Several others had posted questions about wiring in the Q&A and unfortunately PartSelect kept copy/pasting the same confusing and incomplete answer over and over:
"The Yellow goes to T6, Red to T5 Black to T2, blue to T1 and the white you will remove the blue jumper lead between the switch terminal 4 and 1/4" protector tab, connect the grey harness lead to the 1/4" protector tab."
Reading that doesn't tell me what to do with the white wire, doesn't address that my blue and white wires were crimped into the same connector from the factory, doesn't address that I had 2 black wires crimped into the same connector from the factory, and doesn't address a factory ground wire that connected the frame of the OEM motor to the bracket that the motor sits in.
With all the other excellent info supplied by PartSelect, this was surprising and frustrating. The sales dept ignored an emailed question from me, and the Q&A section didn't allow me to post a question.
Searching the internet, I found a wiring diagram on aceappliancesd dot com that addressed my dryer's OEM wiring configuration. Here's what I ended up with:
TI - Blue and white, crimped together into a single connector T2 - Black & black, crimped together into a single connector (the wiring diagram I found said this should be black & brown, but they both look black to me) T5 - Red T6 - Yellow 1/4" Thermal protector tab - Grey (from the harness)
The new motor switch had a grounding tab with nothing connected to it. I removed the screw holding that tab into the switch and connected the (also grey) OEM short ground wire from the motor frame to the mounting bracket.
I had to cut 2 of the pieces of tape holding the OEM wiring harness together in order to get enough slack for all the connections to reach. If you do this too, make sure all the wires are still clear of the moving parts and the hot bits. You may need to retape the wires together at a different location to keep things tidy.
I also laid the belt over the drum and put 2 pieces of tape over it to hold it in place while I got the drum positioned, then I reached through the back access panel to loop the belt around the motor pulley and idler. Once that's done, just reach over the top of the drum and peel the tape off. I found that much easier than trying to loop the belt by reaching through and past the drum.
Opened your replacement part and found a broken fin on the blower wheel. no way I was going to return it and wait another week for another part. Perhaps you folks need to inspect what you send out. 1 blower wheel with a broken fin and 2 clamps. Replacement was easy and quickly accomplished. Having replaced drum rollers and the belt this dryer is almost new. Thanks
Looked in one of the back removable panels and saw the broken belt. Took the machines front panel off per a You Tube video and saw the repair was simple but too the time to vacuum out a large amount of Lint Debris that had accumulated over the past 34 years all over the inside of the machine which is dangerous.. After cleaning it all up I simply put the new belt on and put everything back together and it all works nicely again!
