Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The peg attached to the starter switch broke off.
* Please note, if only the starter switch peg is broken you do not need to replace the starter knob if it isn't damaged. The peg is not attached to the starter knob. You must replace the entire starter unit because the peg isn't detachable.
Remove the starter knob by gently pulling it towards you.
Remove the two screws on the bottom left and right sides of the front panel using an Allen Wrench.
On the rear panel of the dryer remove bolts using pliers or an adjustable wrench. Remove the back panel and place it to the side.
** Important ** Before disconnecting the wires from the starter unit take a digital photo (I used my cell phone) of the starter so you will know how and where to reconnect the blue and brown wires to the unit. Now, remove the wires.
Unscrew the bolt attaching the starter unit to the dryer. There's a hook on the back of the starter unit attaching it to the dryer. Push the starter unit downward to remove it from the dryer.
Take the new starter unit out of the box and connect it to the blue and brown wires. Refer to your photo for proper connection.
Insert the starter unit into the dryer and push it upward so the hook on the back of the starter locks onto the dryer. Screw the bolt back onto the starter unit to secure it to the dryer.
Replace the rear dryer panel and tighten all bolts.
Replace and tighten the two screws on the front panel of the dryer.
Replace the starter knob by lining it up with the peg shape and gently pushing it onto the peg.
Bad Drive-Belt, Follower wheel and two front slider pads.
Unplug the AC cord. Open dryer door and unscrew 4 small Phillips screws that hold the top panel to the front panel. Tilt up the top panel. To remove the front panel: Look on the inside of the front panel, disconnect all the wire connections that go to/from the front panel, such as the light and door switch. Remove 2 screws that attach the top of front panel to the side panels using a 8mm or 5/16" wrench. Undo or loosen 2 Phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel, one at each bottom corner. Remove the front panel. Go to the back of the dryer. Remove the 8 screws holding the lower access panel (8mm or 5/16"). Remove the access panel. Also, remove the 2"x4" access plate in the center of the back panel (2 8mm/5/16"). Reach inside the small panel opening with a needle nose pliers and remove a Cir-clip and washer that holds the rear drum bearing shaft in place. Now you can remove the drum straight forward. Clean, clean, clean the insides. Replace the worn drive belt, follower wheel and front slider pads as needed. Reverse the procedure to reassemble. Plug in and test. Drink beer.
Unplugged the machine. Removed four screws from the top of the machine to uncover the top of the machine. Pulled the leads off the broken switch. In the future I will make a note of which lead goes where. There are only two ways. Went to PartSelect.com and found the part in less than a minute by using their part finder. Placed the switch through the original opening in the machine and reattached the leads. Reattached the cover. Plugged the machine back in. Turned the switch and it started right up.
first I removed the screws with the nutdriver at the bottom of the dryer at the back..then I could see the belt was broken...next I took off the 2 nuts at the back that hold the top on ..then opened the dryer front door and unscrewd the 4 screws holding the top on....then I lifted the top up and to the side...then all I had to do was take out 2 screws one on each side of dryer front and the the front was open enough that I could slide the new belt on dryer..then screwed the front back on...then placed the top on and went to the back of dryer and put belt on pulley using the diagram I found in the instructions inside the dryer top...really a lot easier than it sounds...easy fix saved me from buying another dryer
Unplug dryer from electrical outlet unscrew 4 screws back off dryer panel unscrew 2 screws each off sides that hold panel had to get a wrench set to unscrew rotary start switch from front panel because the two sides would not come off. tilt front panel and unscrewed rotary switch with wrench. Insert and screwed in rotary switch. Place on new knob. Plugged dryer in electical outlet and tested parts. Everything worked. Place screws back in sides and back panel. Done Very easy.
bad drum bearing caused motor pulley to burn through belt
Top is hinged in back, removing the 4 screws over the door under the top allowed the top to open. Removing the 2 screws near the top of the door panel allowed it's removal. Marked and disconnected wiring. Lifted drum through top. New bearing housing required 3 mounting holes to be tapped to 10-24. Installed bearing and backing shims with old hardened allen head mounting screws inside drum while wife held bearing in back of drum. Furnished 3- 10-24 lock nuts to lock mounting screws in place from their back side. Reinserted drum through dryer top with belt on drum. Hardest part was getting the belt on motor pulley while holding the idler in it's correct position due to small access holes at the very bottom in rear panel. Works just fine again.
First read very helpful reviews on PartSelect from: Summit Health and Fitness From Flagstaff AZ and Michael From Warwick RI
The parts diagram on PartSelect is good as an overview. Having two people makes a big difference detaching and re-attaching the drum.
Knowing how to get the lid and front door off each specific model is important. That's where the stories mentioned above were essential. After that, many generic dryer repair stories will work.
I recommend changing all wearable parts while you are in there. I wish I had ordered some new felt, but I did rear bearing, slides, and belt even though the belt probably was good to go.
PartSelect shipped from Windsor Locks, CT. The parts were nearly exact replacements. Some fasteners were different, so I used the old ones and had the tap the sheet metal on the retainer with the fasteners before installing it.
Really glad to have stumbled on this site via Google.
Open door,remove two screws at top,push top up unroll it is straight up,remove two wires for the door switch,remove the two sheet metal screws ,pull up on the complete front asembly then out,hold drum when doing this.then remove trim ring most likely you will need to break it because it's very hard to remove.replace ring and bearing slides
Dryer was producing a screeching noise while running
I removed the front panel and the top of the dryer, pulled the drum forward and removed the old rear drum bearing then inserted the new rear drum bearing. I didn't replace the washers or the retaining ring in the back. Put the drum shaft into the new rear drum bearing. Put the front panel and the top in place and started using the dryer again.
clothing was getting stuck on inside near top of door
I followed instructions provided by other users of this site. Two screws removed allowed the top to be raised. Two more screws allowed the front to be removed and swung to the side. I removed the felt, and replaced it, after looking which way the bevelled edge faced. The teflon drum slide bearings were simple to replace. The front drum bearing was a little difficult to remove, but I just kept prying with a flathead screwdriver and it eventually began to pop off. I vacuumed and removed a ton of lint from everywhere I could get at, and the dryer now runs quieter with no more clothing getting hung up inside.
The repair in retrospect was very easy. Not knowing alot about the dryer I made one mistake. I put the bearing in backwards and broke the rubber gasket. After ordering a new gasket and paying close attention to what I was doing it worked out fine. Saved me about $200 for a repairman.
Had to skip holes for tabs on corners. could not stretch gasket to fit the holes. Cut off the unused tabs in order to close door. Used pliers to push tabs in holes. New gasket fit sufficently and is better than old cracked gasket.
Key starting point is to remove top cover by removing two long screws located at the front of the cover Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports. Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab. Support the drum at the top using piece of rope. Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached). Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit. Reinstall the the heating unit Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier. Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier. Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw. Reassemble in reverse order.
