Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Timer knob broke.
Simply replaced it. I have ordered from Parts Select several times. Excellent customer service. They always have the parts that I need and ship them to me promptly. Great company!
Dryer was operating WAY TOO HOT! Potential FIRE Hazard!
I discovered that the High Limit Thermo was in place, but had been bypassed years ago. After lifting the top up, I finally found the HLT on the top left side in the back. I removed it, then put the new one in with its 2 screws. I put new lugs on its wires and put them back on. The dryer tested GOOD. No more potential Bar-B-Que! I did print a picture of the wiring diagrams that were on the back of the unit. This gave me the color code of the wires, where they were to be found, and what they did. This also helped. This GE Dryer is at least 26 years old! Newer Dryers in the Videos actually require more work removing things to get to the Thermostat. When I finally found it, the job went quick.
bad drum bearing caused motor pulley to burn through belt
Top is hinged in back, removing the 4 screws over the door under the top allowed the top to open. Removing the 2 screws near the top of the door panel allowed it's removal. Marked and disconnected wiring. Lifted drum through top. New bearing housing required 3 mounting holes to be tapped to 10-24. Installed bearing and backing shims with old hardened allen head mounting screws inside drum while wife held bearing in back of drum. Furnished 3- 10-24 lock nuts to lock mounting screws in place from their back side. Reinserted drum through dryer top with belt on drum. Hardest part was getting the belt on motor pulley while holding the idler in it's correct position due to small access holes at the very bottom in rear panel. Works just fine again.
Unplug dryer from electrical outlet unscrew 4 screws back off dryer panel unscrew 2 screws each off sides that hold panel had to get a wrench set to unscrew rotary start switch from front panel because the two sides would not come off. tilt front panel and unscrewed rotary switch with wrench. Insert and screwed in rotary switch. Place on new knob. Plugged dryer in electical outlet and tested parts. Everything worked. Place screws back in sides and back panel. Done Very easy.
Dryer was producing a screeching noise while running
I removed the front panel and the top of the dryer, pulled the drum forward and removed the old rear drum bearing then inserted the new rear drum bearing. I didn't replace the washers or the retaining ring in the back. Put the drum shaft into the new rear drum bearing. Put the front panel and the top in place and started using the dryer again.
clothing was getting stuck on inside near top of door
I followed instructions provided by other users of this site. Two screws removed allowed the top to be raised. Two more screws allowed the front to be removed and swung to the side. I removed the felt, and replaced it, after looking which way the bevelled edge faced. The teflon drum slide bearings were simple to replace. The front drum bearing was a little difficult to remove, but I just kept prying with a flathead screwdriver and it eventually began to pop off. I vacuumed and removed a ton of lint from everywhere I could get at, and the dryer now runs quieter with no more clothing getting hung up inside.
First read very helpful reviews on PartSelect from: Summit Health and Fitness From Flagstaff AZ and Michael From Warwick RI
The parts diagram on PartSelect is good as an overview. Having two people makes a big difference detaching and re-attaching the drum.
Knowing how to get the lid and front door off each specific model is important. That's where the stories mentioned above were essential. After that, many generic dryer repair stories will work.
I recommend changing all wearable parts while you are in there. I wish I had ordered some new felt, but I did rear bearing, slides, and belt even though the belt probably was good to go.
PartSelect shipped from Windsor Locks, CT. The parts were nearly exact replacements. Some fasteners were different, so I used the old ones and had the tap the sheet metal on the retainer with the fasteners before installing it.
Really glad to have stumbled on this site via Google.
Open door,remove two screws at top,push top up unroll it is straight up,remove two wires for the door switch,remove the two sheet metal screws ,pull up on the complete front asembly then out,hold drum when doing this.then remove trim ring most likely you will need to break it because it's very hard to remove.replace ring and bearing slides
Key starting point is to remove top cover by removing two long screws located at the front of the cover Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports. Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab. Support the drum at the top using piece of rope. Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached). Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit. Reinstall the the heating unit Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier. Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier. Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw. Reassemble in reverse order.
Had to skip holes for tabs on corners. could not stretch gasket to fit the holes. Cut off the unused tabs in order to close door. Used pliers to push tabs in holes. New gasket fit sufficently and is better than old cracked gasket.
The repair in retrospect was very easy. Not knowing alot about the dryer I made one mistake. I put the bearing in backwards and broke the rubber gasket. After ordering a new gasket and paying close attention to what I was doing it worked out fine. Saved me about $200 for a repairman.
After identifying the issue, the biggest issue was trying to identify how to get the belt around the drum tumbler. After looking through the back hatch, I figured the best way was through the top. I removed the top just enough to work the belt in between the drum and the front sheet metal. Then I turned it on its side and worked the belt from the back hatch. I pulled the pulley back on the tensioner and slipped the belt under neath. Put it back together, been working great.
All I neede to do was buy the new part and snap it into place on the door. The hardest part was making the door usable while waiting for a new handle. The solution was good old duct tape. I just taped the old broken handle in place until the new one showed up.
My GE Hotpoint dryer would not completely dry clothes due to rusty and clogged flint filter.
I just pulled out the old white frame by hand and replaced it with a new one ordered online. No tools were needed. Simply easily, anyone can do with no required skills.
This saved the appliance from possible damage due to poor ventilation and also save the cost of a handyman to fix the problem.
