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Front Burner was on high all the time when on
Turn off the breaker to the stove. Very important because when you move the control panel around after removing it, you can inadvertently touch a hot wire to a grounded metal part on the stove. Remove the 3 nuts from the back of the control panel and the two nuts from under neath the control panel on either far side. Pull the control knob off by pulling straight away from the control panel. Remove the switch by unscrewing the two screws. Match the 5 wires from the old switch to the new switch by removing one at a time and paying attention to the labeling of each on both switches. Reassemble in reverse order. Turn breaker back on.
When we bought our home less than a year ago, we had three functional burners on our 40" wide 50's classic Kelvinator (not close to standard size these-a-days). After a few months of use, two more burners went out for good and we were stuck using the back left burner for all of our cooking. I opted for the premium burners and made sure to compare my terminals with the ones online to be sure they mounted the same. I removed the burners and terminals, clipped the wires going into the terminals, and removed the top of the stove. I followed the directions that came with the new terminals, pushed in the new burners and viola! All four burners now work. I gave the stove a general cleaning and now my 1954 Kelvinator looks and cooks like it is brand new. It was easily the best $109 I've spent on my home.
I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.
My bake element (lower element) just about caught fire and needed replacing
The repair was straight forward and the video was a big help. I removed the oven racks and then used a 1/4" socket with a nut driver to unscrew the bolts at the back. Since this is a really old oven, the connecting wires were a bit difficult to remove from the bake element connectors. They seems kind of stuck, so I took a small, thin screw driver and pried up one of the metal clamps of the connecting wire just enough to let me budge the connector to detach the bake element. Had to do that for both sides. Then I just put the new bake element in, attached the wire connectors, made sure the wires and the ends of the bake element were all the way back in their holes, screwed the screws back in, and then put the racks back in. It was really easy, except for the bit of a challenge getting the wire connectors detached from the old bake element connectors. Works now without catching fire. :-D
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
From learning the hard way on a previous repair, I opened the circuit breaker for the oven at the circuit box (arc welders use 220 volts also). Then using a nut driver, I removed the two retaining screws and pulled the bake element from the oven (about 3"). Then I removed the spade connectors on both ends of the element and reconnected them to the new element. Then I gently pushed the element back into the rear wall of the oven and replaced the retaining screws. This procedure is extreamly easy and very straight forward, anyone could accomplish this task.
Neither of the oven elements worked (bake or broil)
Turn off the circuit breaker to range. Removed the back panel using a nut driver. Removed color coded wiring from old clocktimer and placed wiring on new clocktimer. Removed old clocktimer from range using a phillips screwdriver. Removed the white clock face using a utility knife, placed the white clock face on the new clocktimer. Installed new clocktimer in range using a phillips screwdriver. Replaced the back panel using a nut driver. Turn on the circuit breaker. Set the range clock to the correct time. Baked some cookies to test oven. Easy as pie :)
I removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out, and one of the leads came off and dropped into the oven. I had to take the back of the stove off and feed the lead back through the hole into the oven. If I had been careful to keep the leads from dropping out of the hole, the whole repair would have taken only a few minutes. But even so, it was quite easy.
In a seasonal house, a mouse got into the oven insulation during the winter. We have gotten rid of the mouse but when we used the oven we could smell mouse urine! Upon inspection we could see that the mouse lived and urinated in the oven insulation.
My husband removed the screws that held the top of the stove on and then lifted the top up. It is hinged. He then took out the old insulation, wiped down all visible parts of the interior with a bleach solution and replaced the blanket insulation with the new insulation. That took care of the problem!
TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range back in place. DONE
Block terminal burnt out, hot plate not working, needed to replace the terminal block
This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.
Went to use the stove and the main baking element had a melt down.
shut off power to stove. Opened the oven door, removed the racks. removed 2 screws holding the element in place. gently pulled element out to expose connections. removed connections. discard old element. reattach connections to new element and reinstall. very simple.
i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.