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BVLR333GV0WW Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the BVLR333GV0WW
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Plastic handle in dryer broke off.
All I neede to do was buy the new part and snap it into place on the door. The hardest part was making the door usable while waiting for a new handle. The solution was good old duct tape. I just taped the old broken handle in place until the new one showed up.
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • Steve from West Bloomfield, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Plastic Door Handle Cracked
Old handle popped out by pulling back and out. Inserted new handle by pushing in and forward. Easy!
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • richard from pleasant grove, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer shut down completely, wouldn't start
Removed 3 torx screws on the control panel. Removed two more regular screws from the dryer opening. This allows removal of the top. Removed some panels from the back to access where belt feeds through the motor. Found the belt snapped in two inside.

Now that I knew what the problem was I found partselect.com on Google. Ordered the part friday morning with ground. The belt arrived SATURDAY MORNING! I didn't even know fedex would deliver ground shipments on Saturday. Less than 24 hours later I had it. AWESOME.

Removed the front panel by removing two hex bolts to allow me to drape the belt over the drum. Not having seen how the belt was originally around the tensioner and the bad diagrams included with the dryer, it took some figuring to get it back on right. But we did it and we're back in business. I will absolutely buy from PartSelect.com again!
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Rob from Valencia, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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My GE Hotpoint dryer would not completely dry clothes due to rusty and clogged flint filter.
I just pulled out the old white frame by hand and replaced it with a new one ordered online. No tools were needed. Simply easily, anyone can do with no required skills.

This saved the appliance from possible damage due to poor ventilation and also save the cost of a handyman to fix the problem.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter with Frame
  • Mark from Teaneck, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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squeaking noise then drum stopped turning
The repair in retrospect was very easy. Not knowing alot about the dryer I made one mistake. I put the bearing in backwards and broke the rubber gasket. After ordering a new gasket and paying close attention to what I was doing it worked out fine. Saved me about $200 for a repairman.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing
  • mountain ridge pet from nashua, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Very loud squeak with drum rotation
Key starting point is to remove top cover by removing two long screws located at the front of the cover
Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports.
Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab.
Support the drum at the top using piece of rope.
Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached).
Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit.
Reinstall the the heating unit
Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier.
Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier.
Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • William from San Juan, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench set
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handle fell off
stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • Lilly from CROSBY, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer motor was running, but the drum stopped turning. The drive belt was broken.
I followed the instructions in your detailed online video. Fortunately on my model there was a removable panel on the back of the dryer which provided easy access to install the drive belt on the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Great video and very easy repair.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Charles from POINT HARBOR, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Replaced dyer belt
First unplug dryer... very important. You have to identify the appropriate size socket wrench and locate all necessary screws to remove top panel of dryer and front panel. Locate belt drive. Remove old belt , replacing it with new belt attaching belt to dryer drum . Remove back panel of dryer to better reach and adjust belt onto tension wheels. Put dyer back together. YouTube gives you an idea of how to properly change a belt on dryer
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Vernon from BALTIMORE, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Switch was either stuck in start position or had to rotate full turn to start
Removed four allen head screws to expose inside of panel. Used flat blade screwdriver to raise spring retainer and turned switch counter clockwise to remove.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • DERALD from Burleson, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer was making intermittent, loud, moaning and whistling-screeching noises (temporarily relieved by squirtin lubricant through the drum holes towards the bearing).
I used a flat head, a phillips head, and two sizes of sockets with my screwdriver to complete this project. I initially undid the control panel, but I don't think I needed to. I next took out two long screws that were holding the top of the cabinet on. These screws were just inside the doorway, directly above where the door sits when closed. I took the top off and set it aside. Being careful to mark which wire went to which lead, I undid the leads to the door open/closed switch. I next found two, black, hex-end screws, one each on the upper sides, towards the front, and undid these with a socket end on the screwdriver; being careful not to drop them as they came out. I then tilted the front panel out and up and set it aside. Note that the front opening holds the drum up so it can spin. Next, I tilted the front of the drum up, and pulled it outwards, till bearing at the back pulled out of the socket, and the drum dropped down enough that I could push the belt off the back of the drum. I then pulled the drum out through the front opening. I could see that the bearing was mostly worn away and metal was rubbing on metal. On the drum, I took off the air diffuser and the drum's half of the bearing assembly, and attached the new part of the bearing assembly, where the old one was. There was a metal disk that I was careful to reinsert in its former spot. I tried to make sure that all screws were tightened with equal force. Then I removed the entire bearing housing/blower assembly by undoing the outer screws that attached it ti the back wall of the cabinet, I rotated it outward at the top , pivoting around the compression fitting (no screws) at the base. I then removed the back half of the bearing housing, and replaced it. I needed to screw in the screws from the front while holding the spring-clip-thing in place (once installed, you can stick your finger through the hole in the bearing housing and feel the clip right behind it). I took this opportunity to clean all the excess lint out of the cabinet. I then replaced everything in reverse order until I got to the drum. I put the belt loosely arounf the drum, with the grooved/ridged side facing in. Then put the bearing (with drum), back in the socket. Feeling through the hole under the front of the drum, take the belt where it hangs off the drum TO YOUR RIGHT, run it under then up around the left side of the small pulley, then pull it to the right (above the small pulley) and around the right side of the big (tensioner) pulley, and let go. Note that there is a swithch in the tensioner that won't switch on unless there is enough tension on the belt! Put the front back on, lifting up the barrel from the inside, so that the barrel opening slides around the outside of the front's assembly. Ours seemed to fit more tightly than it had previously, into the felt padding around to bottom of the front assembly, but it seems to work fine? Screw in the two black, hex-head screws from the sides into the front, and re-attach the door-switch wires. Turn it on (carefully) to make sure it runs. Then attach the top, using the two long screws up through the door opening into the top. Ours is working much better than before - hotter, faster, quieter! Should we have lubricated the bearing with lithium grease?
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • BJ from WHEAT RIDGE, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Broken door handle
Snapped right into place , less than a minute, if that
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • Bud from RCH CUCAMONGA, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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The timer knob was cracked and the metal "D"-Ring was broken on my GE cloths dryer
This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc
Parts Used:
D-Shaped Knob Clip
  • Lynn from MORGANTOWN, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Broken start swithch from moving dryer
Removed top panel from dryer. Unplugged the 2 wires for swithch, rotated swith, and removed. Reversed the process. Put parts back together.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • David from Rice Lake, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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It was an awful sreeching noise
I removed the two screws from inside the door at the top, which were holding down the top.

Removed top,then two screws at the top of front in the inside of the unit

Tilted out the front so the wires would not come disconnected, slip in new bushings, and put it back together.

Thanks,
Saved me from buying a new dryer
Parts Used:
Drum Slide
  • raymond from madison heights, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the BVLR333GV0WW
121 - 135 of 451