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Loose terminal caused block to overheat and break
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.
Unplugged oven. Took screws off top backside cover. Pulled off oven knob. Pulled wies off backside of krc electric module, Making sure to remember the order of the wires. Took off four screws on the module and pulled it out. Pulled off the touch pad plastic from the old module. Put old touch pad plastic on new module. Replaced new module with the four screws. pushed wires back on. Also, replaced left side back guard end cap, by unscrewing the three screws that hold it. I then replaced top backside cover. pushed back on oven control knob. Plugged oven in and tested it. Now its as good as new.
Received part after one working day and was installed in five minutes.. Would recommend as a do it your self project with the support of PartSelect.com
replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).
Top (broil) element broke in two on oven. Ordered part,it was there in three days. Quick fix, removed screw holding element to oven wall, unplugged wires, then just swaped out elements. Re-attached wires just as they were on old element and screwed back into same place and oven is working again.
Oven would not stop heating even with Bake turned off!
The lower element had burned out but in the process, it developed a short from line to neutral. Since the short was located about 3/4 of the total length from the one hot leg (L1) and the other hot leg (L2) was the relay controlled leg, there was a current path that allowed the element to heat even with L2 disconnected by the relay. Actually replacing the element was easy, just remove the back cover(s) and the element mounting screws (2) inside the oven cavity and the new unit slides into place. Reconnect the two wires to the new element and replace the back covers. Back in business and the cookies are coming out perfectly!
Sparks emitted at burner connection and burner does not work.
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan. 2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing. 3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire. 4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions. 5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.
This wasn't a "repair", but I got an email asking for my story, so here it is. :-)
I followed the owner's manual instructions by pulling out the burner elements, lifting up the old drip bowls, setting in the new ones, replacing the elements.
I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).
* * * * I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)
Stove-top Burner intermittently shut off and on-wouldn't heat properly
removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!
I unscrewed the 3 screws that held the element in place. My husband disconnected the back wired part of element .Then he reconnected new element wires and I rescrewed 3 screws in of new element. Very simple. I just wasn't sure about the back wired part, but like I said my husband seemed to know what he was doing so I let him do that part!
Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.
Pulled stove out, unplugged it and took 4 screws out to get access to control board. Marked and removed all electrical wires and took 4 more screws out and took of oven knob.Replaced the control board and put everything back together.