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Gear-worm teeth stripped, teeth on pinion shaft worn to sharp edge and case gasket dried out. Not bad for a 20 yr. old mixer.
Looked at the mixer schematic form your website,which made it easy for me to take it apart. Once it was apart & all the grease removed I disassembled & cleaned all the drive parts. Saw what was warn, ordered the parts from you. Three days later received the parts, everything fit perfect. Added grease,assembled the mixer and it ran perfect, good for another 20 yrs. Thank you for making it so easy to repair an old mixer in just over two hours. Rolf
Mixer was overloaded, and began to smell hot and make noise. Did not recover when load was removed.
I disassembled the mixer using a YouTube video as a guide. Disassembly was easy, as everything was held together with pins and threaded fasteners, and all electrical connections were plug-on.
Cleaning out the old grease was messy and time-consuming. I used a putty knife, screwdrivers (used them like small putty knives in the crevasses), paper towels, and finally, small cloths dampened with alcohol. After about a hour (maybe 90 minutes) everything actually looked like new.
I originally diagnosed the problem as the plastic gear loosening up from it's hub, so I ordered the complete gear tower assembly. It turned out not to be the problem- the gears were fine. With the gears removed to eliminate load, I applied power and saw that the original symptom was still there.
Further research turned up that this symptom is more likely a failed field coil, or possibly the phase control board. I ordered both from PartSelect. In the meantime, I tested the armature by measuring the resistance across the brushes as I slowly turned it by hand. At every angle, the resistance was about 7.5 ohms. Nothing lower, and no opens, so I'm pretty sure the armature is OK.
The phase control board arrived, but as of this writing, the field coil has been back ordered for almost a month. While I waited, I tried a partial reassembly of the head with the new board, and it worked! This weekend, I'll finish reassembly of the motor unit to the base/gearbox and calibrate the speed governor. In addition to the new gear tower and phase control board, it has new grease, seals, and both side levers (tilt and speed control) that had lost their knobs some time ago.
Hopefully it will be ready for another quarter century of use!
Broken lift arm. Could not raise the mixer bowl to the rotating mixer blade.
Separated the mixer head from the pedestal and base by removing four bolt/screws (It is not necessary to separate the base and pedestal) . Rotated the lift arm to the raised position (a screwdriver might come in handy since the broken part might impede access) and removed the cotter pin (using needlenosed pliers) on the broken lift arm. Then used a hammer and a small hex driver to punch out the lift lever retaining/actuating pin. This allowed me to pull out the lift lever and replace the broken part with the new lift arm. It was a simple matter to then replace the lift lever retaining/actuating pin and the lift arm cotter pin, and reassemble the mixer head and pedestal.
The smallest gear was broken, so we got the worm gear and bracket as well as a new gasket and some lube to grease the gears
We disassembled it with the help of a YouTube video from partselect. We saw the damaged gear, removed the 4 screws to remove it, cleaned all the old grease out with rags so it wouldn't be contaminated by metal shavings. We reassembled it per the YouTube video and it works better than ever!! Make sure you remove the roll pin before trying to pry off the planetary plate, because I watched a different video first, which didnt tell me that and i bent it a bit.
Looked for the probable cause from a U-tube video, then found the parts list and repair video on the PartSelect website. When the parts arrived within 3days the shipped email had a video on exactly how to complete the repair. Repair video was very well done and easy to follow.
Repairing/replacing worm-gear (FSP part# W10112253) for a KitchenAid Stand Mixer model number K5SS. First: I am writing this story because all the videos or repair articles I’ve viewed are either misleading or incorrect in that they do not include older K5SS models. 1. These older models from the mid 1960’s or even earlier have four very large #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws holding the mixer base to the motor assembly and NOT four small machine screws (one with a lock-washer) as seen on other repair videos. In addition, the stand is composed of two separate pieces with the bottom half being held together with another four identical #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws. The upper four holding the stand to the motor housing (I used a manual impact driver to loosen the very stubborn, #4 Phillips screws) must be removed so as to access the four smaller Phillips machine screws (no lock-washers found here, best buy at least four #10, split, before reassembly) 2. Lastly, you will need two pin punches however the recommended smaller 3/32 inch is still too large to remove the pin in the tower assembly. You will need one size smaller or a #4 pin punch instead. These older Kitchen Aid mixers were built with very tight tolerances. Please be patient and take your time removing the pins. Good Luck……. Jim
Two flat head screws removed, swapped out the latch, and replaced. The entire repair took about two minutes. Price was acceptable given the worth of the mixer.
I removed the pin from the outside shaft,then removed all screw around the body of the mixer,then removed the top case out,took 3 screws out from the the gear assembly case......punched the pin out of worm gear then release the little shaft out from the case,replaced a new one....then starting go backward till completely all assembled don't forget lube grease to all gears and test run good very smooth.........it's ok
Removed the two screws that hold the bowl spring in place. Removed broken spring. Replaced broken spring with replacement spring. Tightened two screws that hold it in place.
First of all I found the part in no time flat and ordered it early afternoon and it was at my door within 24 hours! My son was off work one day and I asked him if he needed a job to do and he said "sure". So I showed him the new part and where it goes and in less then 10 min it was working. awesome!
‘Can’t remember well enough to describe accurately. Removed one screw to remove rear cover. Removed two screws to remove bright-metal band - probably not necessary but it did yield a bit more working space. IIRC, three screws and removing wires from spade-connectors was sufficient to remove the speed control plate. Remove one more screw to remove phase control board (probably unnecessary). I took close-up pictures with my iPhone first to assure wires would get replaced on the proper lugs (only to discover the wiring diagram later). Adjusting the control plate to meet the speed criteria in the instructions was very easy. It did serve to remind me that I probably didn’t need either of the new parts; readjusting the old speed control plate would probably have done it. But I appreciate the POM brought on by the new parts.
It’s an incredible pleasure to work on something so well-made as this old Kitchen-Aid mixer. I just enjoyed handling it! Having achieved a proper repair was rather satisfying too. I just loved the entire experience!
I removed the spring loaded brush screw on the side of my mixer and lost it the next day. I found a schematic of this part on your website and ordered the four pieces that make up the brush screw(?). They arrived in just a few days and I referred back to the schematic to put it together. I then popped it in my mixer, screwed it down, plugged her in and away we go! Easiest repair I’ve ever done! I’m a 70 year old retired lady and not very handy, but this was an easy fix! Thank you, PartSelect!
We have the classic Hobart-made KitchenAid mixer from the mid-1980s. The original cord sheathing was disintegrating. The replacement cord is actually a better design, but the housing needs to be filed down to slide the cord into place. The old housing channel on my mixer only allowed for something basically the cord width to fit through. The part of the cord that now fits tight against the housing is much thicker and sturdier than the original. I started with a metal file to widen the housing channel, which was working but taking a long time. My son the electrical engineer suggested a Dremel, which was indeed faster on the thick aluminum housing. We used a small circular sanding tip to avoid damaging any adjacent workings. My son also saw that the slim strain relief collar at the top of the cord was pushing and bending the wires too much against the rest of the unit, so he took an X-acto knife and gently rolled the cutting edge along the base of the top collar until he could tear away that extra collar and let the wires lie more naturally in the space. We also managed to break the paper gasket meant to shield the motor from vented flour (in my case lots of years of cocoa powder! Time to vacuum here), but taped that back together with black electrical tape. After the adjustments were made, the cord replacement itself took about 2 minutes. If your mixer is more modern, you may not need to make any adjustments like we did. Just take a picture of how the wires attach and duplicate that with the new wires in the cord.
