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Refrigerator door wouldn't close automatically.
Removed the top hinge with a socket and lifted the door off. Removed the bottom hinge from the refrigerator with same sized socket. Used a Dermel to cut out the old rivet holding the old mangled cam. Attached the new cam with a screw, washers and nut. Reattached bottom hinge to the refrigerator. Removed the bracket holding the second cam on the bottom of the door. Replaced the shim and cam. Reinstalled the door. No problems. Just don't make the same mistake I made. You need two cams. They interlock and work together to close the door automatically. The cams are identical. They are just off set by 90 degrees when the door is closed.
This Valve Has 2 Different Size Water Lines Going In To It And They Are Different Diameters.Each Has Its Own Collar That Locks The Lines Into It. Make Sure That You Put The Right Size Collar Over The Line Before You Insert It Into The Valve, Because Once You Put The Line In You Cant Pull It Back Out Without Messing Up The Valve. Make Sure It Is Right Because You Only Get One Shot At It.
Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...
Moving the refrigerator into my new (very old) house we had to remove the doors which resulted in a crimped hose and union
Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
I was looking to see if there was a reason that there was no ice. By luck I removed the cover to the ice maker and found two gears, one of which was damaged. I could see one of the gears had missing teeth. I ordered part to fix problem and received the gear. 10 minutes later, viola! ice maker restarted and ice was falling in a few minutes.
It took me about 15 minutes to complete the repair, 1st I emptied the ice maker, then I removed 4 screws from the rear of the ice maker tray and took the plastic piece off of the auger. I reversed the steps and put it back together.
First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.
What can I tell you to help except if the 75+ year old Grandma can do it you can do it also. This site was great and the shipping was super fast.
Have put up with an ice maker that never automatically quit making ice for over a year. I just manually shut it off (remembered some of the time and was reminded by the error messages when overflowing at other times). I just didn't want to pay for a service call and all that involves for this item. Then the incoming waterline split and I had to make a decision and that was to DIY the repair after reading the info on this site. The ice maker was a breeze and you can read the details in other posts. Here I will say it takes removing two screws to loosen (mine wouldn't slip off unless screws were totally removed), (I shut off the water and unplugged refrigerator since I am neither an electrician nor an appliance repairman) unplugging the ice maker by removing one hex head, removing the control cover (bottom to top as described in other posts), remove 3 screws only in the metal plate that holds the inside of the ice maker together to get access to the "brains", replaced the Cam, reverse to reassemble (remembering to get the arm back into it's hole in the metal plate. End of that job.
After reading posts about the the water line tubing, I made sure that I had all of the parts of the correct size to replace all of the tubing that passes by the compressor. I did not, however, replace the full length of any of the tubing. I cut off the bad sections of the 1/4" to the middle of the back of the refrigerator and connected a new section with the 1/4" x 1/4" water tube unions.(I was able to buy 1/4" water line, 5/16" water line and 1/4" x 1/4" water tube unions locally but I could not find 5/16" x 5/16" water tube unions so I ordered them from PartSelect at the same time as I ordered the ice maker cam.)
Then I went to the inside of the refrigerator removed the cover from the water reservoir (behind the hydrator), cut out the old section of the water dispenser lines that pass by the compressor, threaded in (not as easy as the outside tubes but not difficult either) the new tubing and connected with the 5/16" x 5/16" water tube unions. You will get lots more details in other posts but this is to tell you that you CAN DO IT with help from this site! I fixed it all for less than $20 (versus cost of new refrigerator, or new ice maker, or service call).
remove lower back cover - disconnect wires to fan motor - place 6" fan to blow on condenser - fridge began cooling & freezing again - ordered part - part arrived - removed fan motor & bracket - cleaned brackets & fan blade - cleaned lint & dust from condenser compartment (took longer to clean than anything else) - replaced fan motor - replaced cover - was hero with wife ... :-)
First turn off the power, remove the ice tray, remove the two screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, use the screw driver to gently open the electrical clip for the power cord inside the freezer, remove the complete unit from freezer, bend the old stripper from the holding pin- it is flexible- it will bend, replace the new stripper on the holding pin and bend into the slot to hold it firmly, no water will come out from the fill cup into the freezer, plug in the power cord, mount back to side of freezer, you are done.
