36315651892 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed the instructions and it was easy. Made the washer seem brand new!...It is the best solutions for a small budget. We used CLR to wash out the washer workings and it really left a sparkle on the dishes... I am so glad you don't change the models so much that parts can't be exchanged when they wear...

I ordered a replacement from partselect.com and received it in just three days. The only difficult part was deciding how to remove the white plastic end caps on the sliding rails. Finally, I took a small screwdrive and pried out the crimps in the metal, pulled the old caps out, inserted the new ones, and squeezed the metal together again using needle-nosed pliers. Nothing to it!
Note: The configuration of the new rack isn't exactly like the original (size and placement of the prongs differ somewhat) but it fits perfectly and works great.

Before ordering the parts I read the posts by other do it yourselfers and found them very helpful. I ordered the seal and shaft nut from Parts Select and was impressed the parts were delivered in a couple of days. I removed the two lower panels from the dishwasher to expose the leak and the shaft. I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker box and disconnected the wiring harness to expose the area I would work on. After cleaning the water deposits from the shaft I pried off the small lock washer and removed the plastic cam from the selenoid. Next step required removal of the push on nut. This was the most difficult part of the entire procedure. It required a bit of gentle but firm pulling with pliers and a couple of screwdrivers, sacrificing the nut in the process. It was better ordering a new one originally then trying to save the old one. Having experiencing these nuts in previous work, I knew a new nut would be a cheap fix! Once off, the old seal is easy to remove. Place the new seal on the shaft as per the included instructions, place the new push on nut and reassemble as originally taken apart. (I used a socket set to push on the push on nut.) I then ran a load of dishes to make sure there was no leak before reinstalling the lower panels. I had no leak but pay close attention to placing the seal and push on nut. The seal must be in the exact place.

I popped off the front track stops--pretty easy with a little twisting and slid the basket out. A little leverage with a screw driver and the roller axle slipped off easily. Popped the new ones on, slid the basket back into the track and popped the stops in place and the job was done in under 15 minutes.

The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping where the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.

Unscrewed the old spray arm (I needed pliers but you may not need them)and screwed on the new spray arm.

I pulled the dishwasher out and detached the drain hose. I attached the new drain hose after cleaning out the connection to the garbage disposal.

Now my dishwasher doesn't stink anymore!

I removed the front bottom panels to give me access to the Solenoid area. I did not take out the dishwasher from the cabinetry. I removed the screws holding the solenoid assembly and the C clip holding the hand fan shaped white nylon thing onto the valve shaft. I slipped these to the side. Then I cut through and removed the push on nut with a wire snipper plier. Then I used a knife blade tip to pick out the black seal. I then slipped the new seal onto the shaft, being careful that the flat side was outward, and slid it down the shaft and , with my fingernail, pushed it completely flush into position. The biggest challenge was the push on nut. It does not push on easily and must have the lips pointed outward. It required the use of a 3/8" diamater tube slipped over the shaft to tap the nut down the shaft. This caused the shaft to push into the pump housing, which caused the valve to bind. So I used a vice grip to pull out on and hold the shaft while I tapped the push on nut with a flat head screwdriver. Then I just reversed the solenoid assembly removal. But , when I ran the dishwasher, it no longer leaked.

It is pretty easy to replace the parts because the new and old parts are identical. I unplugged wire connection, removed the two screws and one small metal piece that fixes the plastic moving part, then put back with new parts.
A little bit extra time may needed due to small space in that location, also the small or flexable screw driver is needed.

1. I pulled off the plastic end caps to the top rack that allows the roller wheels to be pulled out of the aluminum rails. You need to push in the raised edge of the plastic caps so they clear the rail slot in order to remove them. This takes a little bit of finger pressure or you can use a flat-edge screw driver to pop them out.
2. Once this procedure is completed, you simply remove the rack and rollers from both rails and remove the old roller wheels and replace them with the new ones.
3. I used a phillips-head screw driver to tighten up the rail wheels before re-installing the top rack into the rails and then re-inserted the end caps. Pliers are handy to help get the end caps back into the rail slots.
4. I finally used a silcon spray on all of the rolling parts of the top tray assembly for lubrication.

I pulled the dishwasher out from under the counter. Loosened the collar holding the sump housing to the pump motor. Unscrewed the cover inside the base of dishwasher to release the collection opening of the sump. It's very flexible so I pulled it out by hand. Put the new one in and screwed everything back down. Pushed the dishwasher back under the counter. Simple Simple Simple.

Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

Shut of water to the built in dishwasher and shot of electric breaker , removed the water line and removed electric hookup at washer. Removed the drain pipe connected to the garbage disposal unit for more darin pipe room when pulling the appliance out from under the counter. Pull out the appliance, and carefully layed it flat on the back. Loosed the 2 connector clamps with a srewdriver from the upper and lower rubber connectors and the small drain rubber connector, used a plier. Loosed the screw on wire hold down pulled the housing pump out of the rubber connectors and used a wire hanger to help support the dangling housing pump unit. Unscrewed the damanged rubber connector using a washcloth for a better grip. , Rescrewed in the new rubber connector. ( Hint- used petrolem vasaline on the rubber connector base for a water tight fit) . Reconnected all , replaced elctric and water line, reconnected the darin pipe to the garabage disposal. Turned water back on. All worked at well.

Opened the package and screwed in the new rinse aid fill cap. No problems. It fit and works just fine.

Just took the old rusty rack out and put the new one in its place.