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would not spin of agitate
I first had to take off the back and the top to get to the pulley and the belt. The pulley had woobled so much that it had worn out the center nad it would no longer hold to the post in the tub. It also had cut into the back of the tub about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I unscrewed the nut holding the pulley and removed it. I then took a knife and trimmed the rough edges off the back of the tub to make it smooth. I then smoothed out the end of the post that the pulley fits on so the new pulley would fit. I tightned the nut and put the belt on the motor drive shaft and Used a robo grip to hold the belt as I turned it onto the pulley. I but the back and top back on and that was it.
Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.
Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three screws at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.
Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.
After removing the Top Cover and back cover by removing the 3 screws for the top and 10 screws on the back cover to expose the interior of the machine. Remove the rubber hose that was attached to the bottom of pressure switch. Pushed gently upward on the pressure switch until it popped out. Gently press down on the 2 small tabs on the plug and then gently pull the plug out. Placed new pressure switch in place, plugged the connector back into the switch. Also doubled checked the hose to ensure that the tubing has not rubbed a hole it from rubbing on the concrete counter balance. If yes then remove the tube from the bottom of the washer and replace with approximately 2 feet of 3/16 inner diameter/1/4 outer diameter tubing. Attach the new tubing to the bottom of the washer port and the pressure switch. Attach the new tub to the water discharge hose using tie wraps or electrical tape to ensure not to occur again.
First and foremost, I usually call a real man to come do a job like this, but after reading the repair stories, I gave it a shot. Very, very easy. Pop of the bottom panel off (three torx screws), drain the water out of the tub (if any), and just follow the directions in the box. Anyone can do this one.
First step was to remove old bellow. I opened the door there is a small wire with a spring attach that holds the outside of the bellow to thw washer. Then removed it from the water inlet, then took a short straight scewdriver to remove the gaint hose clamp holding it to the drum. Installed the new part. When putting hose clamp back on I removed the top of the washer by removing the three screws in the back then I flipped the hose clamp so I could use a long screwdiver from the top side.This will give you alot more room. Hope this helps
Removed washer door from washer. Lay door on work bench (table). You need to remove screws from around most of the washer door to remove broken hinge. Install hinge into door frame. Fasten all screws for hinge and door frame. Reinstall complete door assembly onto washer with removed screws. Helpful to have some hold door for ease of alignment. Tools used: 1/4 inch torque #15 bit with 1/4inch nut driver.
looked repair on you tube followed instructions. took off broken latch. compared to pictures on sites. ordered part. part arrived in 2 days. put part on. suggest using first method quick and easy.
Brother who used to sell appliances opened the washer door and read the booklet inside the washer telling him the part necessary to repair the problem. $33/00 for the water flow meter Part and shipped in next morning and arrived overnight. Excellent service for only $7.00 shipping. Highly recommend this place for parts. This was after a couple of days searching the internet for those with the same problem and not receiving and exact part to fix the problem
Overall, the install was easy. Just a matter of getting yourself to get it done. The video on the removal / install procedures was most helpful. The front shocks were completed very quickly. The rear shock required all hoses to be disconnected and the back of the washer to be removed. After removing perhaps a dozen screws the cover was still fastened. You will see (in my case) 4 plastic flat clips. after they were removed the back came off. The rest of the project was the same as the front shocks. 1st time thru so to be expected. Anyway, certainly a project that any DIYer can tackle. Thanks Partselect for the correct parts in a timely fashion and the knowledge to perform the install. Scott
Washer would not operate, water in drum would not drain. Error code indicated a bad pump
Removed three mounting screws to the front access panel, removed panel, cleaned out drain trap, attempted to reset and drain washer, pump did not operate. Removed one wire harness to pump, two hose clamps and slipped pump assembly out of its mounting grommets, and installed new pump in reverse order. A sinch! And saved me approximately $150.00 bucks in repair service fees.
check error code : no water flow pulled hoses [hot& cold] to clean screen in line. pulled flow meter out from under top of hood to clean and check free wheel movement inside. still error code F28 in mid wash cycle. called in and talk with service: he explained that hot& cold water valve was opening to slow or not enough for flow meter to read full presure. I replace water valve and flow meter. washer is doing fine. [I was getting readly to go in futher down the line and get new controler. talking to service stop me from spending a lot of money. THANK YOU