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Whirlpool Cabrio top load washer Error UL
Lived about 6 months with noisy, unbalanced, vibrating top-load washer that would not fully drain clothes or finish a spin cycle.
Watched as many You-Tube repairs videos as we could. Had difficulty trying to open the top panel for access to spin tub.
Discovered that we had clips in front, about 6" from each side, that needed pressure push with flat metal paint scraper, in order to open the top for access.
Other than that delay, took us about 2 hours total with two of us working together. In the end, Suspension Kit was exactly what we needed, and NO longer get the UL error code, with bothersome constant spin stops, which failed to spin water out of wet clothing.
"dL" error code on display. Lid lock mechanism not working.
This was the second time I did this repair, so it looks like this mechanism lasts about 3 years. I found the video instructions on your website very helpful, with one major exception. On my Maytag Bravos XL machine, there are no clips on the front of the top plate to release by pushing in a putty knife. Rather, there are two vertical brackets on the back of the top plate that are loosened or removed, and then the top can be slid forward about an inch and lifted up.
Also, the tiny electrical connection plugs are secured by plastic clips on the sides of the receptacles. Those clips just need to be spread apart a little in order to unplug the connectors; i.e., don't pull too hard on those plugs, or look for a release lever on the plugs themselves.
Used shop vac to remove as much water as possible. Turned washing machine on side to access pump. Removed old pump. Installed new pump. Used nutdriver to attach three fasteners and pliers to attach clamps to hoses.
The most difficult was to lift the top up. Releasing the clips was tough to push in and it broke some porcelain. The 3 screws on the plastic instrument cover was all that was required. Track the wires and remove the plug in and pull the wires through the access hole and misc clips, a Phillips screw driver removes the plastic switch .Simply place the new switch under the lid and the worst is done. Once the lid was up, 10 minutes and your done.
Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.
Had to fabricate a new top holder for rod and bottom was still working. So far working great Thank God , because they don’t make them like this anymore!
Replaced 4 suspension rods. Had to release washer top from body case by twisting putty knife between lid and body. Once released swung lid up and propped against wall to access suspension rods. Replaced all rods and reinstalled lid. Good test run, no unbalanced error.
A rat ate holes in several rubber elbows in our washer
I got the three rubber elbows to quickly (at an additional price). They were the correct part and fit exactly. I replaced the aggravating spring clamps with new radiator-type screw clamps which made the job easier and in my opinion better. Then I devised a little hardware cloth "fence" around the bottom to the washer to keep the rat out. The job is tough enough in that you must tip the washer forward to get at the lower elbows. Also probably a good idea to adjust the feet "in" as far as possible to minimize rodent access from the bottom.
1st watch a video on replacement of this pump. My main issue was the guard I had to install and the correct way to put it in. I know I got it right. The pump is very noisy, loud! It pumps out just fine. Want to know if this is normal, Loud pump. Let me know. Thanks, Dave
fairly simple remove and put back in …I watched a video of a similar Maytag pump replace got some tips…the electoral connection is shielded by a pull up tab…so it was quite simple I got extra hose clamps in case?…didn’t need them
mins after start it stopped and got code f51. then put it manual spin and got UL code
followed repair manual for code f51.ordered/replaced Rotor Position Sensor {RPS} disconnected and reconnected wiring harness at computer module and then put everything back together and that took care of the problem, It;s been working good since. that sensor was delivered the very next day. that was great. thank you