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Shattered outer oven door glass
We removed the door from oven assembly and laying it flat on the bench removed the stainless steel cover from the rest of the door. Removing the shattered pieces of safety glass was done heating and scraping off vinyl tape.(difficult.)Caution! Do not allow any pieces of glass get under the stainless steel cover, it will leave ugly scratches! We purchased double sided vinyl tape 1/2" wide, 1/16" thick and aluminum "Flue tape" (600 deg. F) 1 1/2" wide from local hardware store to replace the original ones in their previous location. Fitting the new glass on sticky tape has to be done accurately. (no problem). Assembling it was little tricky but still within the ability of a do-it-selfers. We wondered if we should not put the rough side of the glass facing in or out. The original was with the smooth side out so that what we did. If any additional scraping of accumulated grease is needed especially on the inside glass, it requires more disassembly, but we would strongly suggest doing it (we did), while it is all opened. To our surprise the glass arrived by Fed Ex within 24 hours of ordering and now our Whirlpool is gleaming like new again. The cost of this product with shipping/handling by PartsSelect was much lower than ordering it from the other "original" source. Thank you! Sincerely Fred T.
Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
One of the heat elements in my oven would not heat
1. Disconnected power from my oven. 2. Removed several screws that held the control block 3. Removed two screws that held the switch itself disconnected wires and removed switch 4. Reconnected all wires to new switch (no soldiering gun required) 5. Put control block back
Broil element blew itself out, looked like a welder
found the part here, once received, PULL Plug to stove. Removed 8 screws on back panel to remove two female electrical connections on element. Removed two screws from oven ceiling and two screws from back. Removed bad element, slid in new element, reinstalled holding screws for element, done inside oven. Connected female connections on each end of element, replaced back and 8 screws. plugged stove back in and tested Broil eelement, worked great. Wes
This purchase was for replacement parts, not for repair. Installation was a simple matter of taking out the old and installing the new, which is extremely easy to do. One item was damaged; Parts Select was absolutely fantastic to deal with regarding replacement! One word of caution regarding the product - I mistakenly ordered Whirlpool drip pans which have an opening in the bottom, the Maytag pans don't. Initially I thought that it was a mistake by Parts Select; which wasn't the case. The pans fit perfectly so I kept them. If I reorder, I will be certain that I order the correct pans.
After trying for many years to buy the "cheap" drip pans in the store, "They never fit right", I decided to order the correct drip bowls. Now my stove top looks brand new, and my coil elements fit the proper way.
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!
removed drawer below oven, reached under stove and unplugged from outlet, pulled stove out from between cabinets, removed the 8 screws with 5/16 nutdriver from back panel and removed the panel, removed knob from switch , measured length of stem on old switch and compared it to the new switch ( my old switch stems was shorter than the new one so using a pair of pliers I shortened stem per instructions that came with new switch, this was very easy to do ), removed the two screws holding switch to stove and removed the old switch, then I transfered one wire at a time from the old switch to the new one until I had all the wires connected to the new one, used same two screws holding old switch to the stove to mount the new switch to the stove and put knob from old switch onto the new one, installed back panel to stove using the same 8 screws, pushed stove back into place between the cabinets and plugged the stove into the outlet, put drawer back in place below oven door, reset clock and tried out the new switch, so far so good only time well tell if I fixed my problem because it only happens once in awhile
To access the hidden bake element you have to remove the warmer drawer and the left side panel (your left from the back of the oven). To remove the side panel you need to access 3 screws under the side of the glass top, to lift the glass top open the oven door and remove 2 screws from the bottom side of the glass top. Once the drawer and side panel are removed you can use a flat head screwdriver to pry out the false bottom on the front side of the oven and remove 2 more screws on the side so it drops down. Move the insulation out of the way and relase the element tray by prying out 2 tabs on the front side. Unplug the connectors from the element terminals and remove the bolt holding the element. Fold the side of the element tray down to remove the element. Reverse order to install.
After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.
Checked to see that I had all the parts I needed. Installed bottom door trim then side trim pieces. Do not tighten screws. Install door handle with top trim attached over glass. Tighten screws just snug all around.
Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.
