After I watched the repair video for the part, it was a snap. It went exactly as the video described the steps. Hardest part was moving the washer to get behind it.
To fix the problem, I simply removed the top cover of the washing machine by removing the two screws on the back of the machine which allowed me to slide the top back and then I lifted it off. Then I disconnected the hot water hose (after shutting off the valve). Next, I removed the electrical connectors on the old part as well as the hose attached to it and unscrewed the old part and removed it and put the new one on and reattached the hoses and the electrical. It worked like a charm. It took me perhaps 10 minutes total.
Our washer was leaking from the washer hose. Once taken off I could see it had a small tear in it. All it took was a screwdriver and a couple minutes and we were up and running. I love PartSelect.com for always having the parts I need and getting them to me in a timely manner!
Took off the old hose with a screwdriver and put the new one on. As simple as that. You don’t need a repair man to get this done, you can do it yourself and save money too.
During high speed spin mode noise similar to jet afterburners emanating from unit
Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.
The hot water inlet valve was leaking at the seal between the valve and cellinoid.
Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.
Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.
