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40 year old refrigerator brittle light switch fell apart
with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP
I replaced both the punp and water line. the website depicting the repair parts was the best i ever worked with. The parts were high quality delivered on time and easy to install. Total job cost $30 as opposed the cost of of a service man or a new refrig.
easy replacement however, front rubber seal was glued onto old shelf and not removeable in one piece. Would suggest when ordering this part, include the rubber seals - front & back if maintaining crisper seal is desired.
Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.
Bad switch for door prevented interior light from coming on
Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH
Could not have been easier. Trick was finding the part for a refrigerator this old, probably more than 20 years. 1. Removed crisper bin. Removed broken cover. 2. New cover dropped right into place. Replaced bin. Everything fit.
Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks
Frezzer would freeze up, refrigerator stayed cold, solved the problem. Now the refrigerator seems to be running more than usual.
Checked the defroster coil which is located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, it was still working. Followed the schematics down to the defrost timer, which is located in the lower front of the refrigerator and tried that. Plugged in the new part and the problem is solved.
