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replace plastic wheels on refridgerator
I used board levers to do one side at a time.Kinda tricky, but you can hoist up fridge high enough to replace wheels. take your time think it out and be safe . Make sure you use saftey boards to support load to protect yourself==good luck A small mirror may help to see how the rollers alien in the supports.
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
Removed two screws holding valve, removed two 1/4" water lines. disconnected wire clip from old valve. Installed new valve, connecting water and electrical with ease. Absolutely Simple!
Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
I took the cover off the control settings and found the timer. Removed two screws and replaced the defective one with the new one. Had to pay attention to directions since the timer is used in different ways and to make sure the loose wire was installed correctly (not the same way as the original ground was connected).
Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose. Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.
First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.
My refrigerator ran constantly and never got cold!
On a whim I looked into what it would take to fix my garage older 2nd fridge. I was thinking I needed a new seal, but when I checked the website there was a great troubleshooter. I would have never guessed that the defrost timer was what would cause it not to ever get cold. After a fairly simple repair the freezer is colder than ever and I actually had to turn it down. The only complication was the fridge was stuck in a defrost cycle so I had to reset the timer to get the refrigerator running. Thanks so much for a super helpful site for a do-it-yourselfer like me.
While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation. I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill. Done Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
1. Removed the cardboard cover. 2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor. 3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket. 4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor. 5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor. 6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor. 7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided. 8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block. 9. remounted the terminal block. 10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.
Freezer Cooling Problems - would get too warm then too cold. Condenser fan would run sometime but not always
Unplug Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill) Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black) Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable. Remove the fan mounting plate Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire) Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit Replace back panels
Confirmed that the solenoid controlled water valve (Part # PS358631) between the water source and the back of ice maker was defective. I did this by removing the valve and plastic hose from the back of the refrigerator and pointed the end that went into the icemaker towards the sink. I applied 110 volts to the valve and noted that no water was getting through. Replacing the valve was a snap.