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Front element would not turn on
I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.
One of the electric stove top elements had burnt out
The repair was very easy. There were 3 screws under the front lip which had to be removed. This allowed the smooth glass top to be removed, tilt and pull forward. This exposed the burners and the unit I purchased was a direct replacemt for the burnt unit. All I had to do was remove the electrical clips from the old unit and put them on the new unit. There were 3 spring elements, each with 2 screws, which held the unit in place.
First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!
Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.
I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.
I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.
To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.
Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............
burner would not get hot, switch did not feel right
It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly. First killed power the electric stove. I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.
Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact match. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!
Removed two screws bottom front corners of range top - propped the top up - removed the wires from the element - removed the old element - installed the new element reattached the wiring reattached the hold down screws and bingo it worked!
First thing to do is turn the 220volt electrical circuit breaker to the unit off and the last thing is to turn the breaker back on!
Burner got excessively hotand couldn't be regulated
The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.
back R burner of ceramic top stove went out - died
1st - UNPLUGGED appliance from electrical source!! then removed screws to open ceramic stove top, disconnected wires from dead element, plugged in wires to new element, closed stove top, turned on burner - it worked!!
only problem is that "hot burner indicator" does NOT stay lit after burner is turned off!
Turn breaker off and start replaceing wires one at a time until you have the new part wired. Then secure new part and turn the breaker back on and it'll work. It's just that simple.
Oven worked, but all digital display such as clock and etc stoped working
After turning off the circuit to the oven, I first removed the 6 exterior screws holding the upper unit that houses the clock element, then I disconnected the three wiring connectors. The difficult one is the ribbon connector. You must push in the two clips on the end and then raise one side of the connector in order to have it release the ribbon. then I removed the 4 screws that hold the element. You then just put the new one on in reverse of removing the old one. It works great. This could be made easier if each new unit came with visual picture instructions for removing the ribbon cable connector. I read all 14 previous customer reviews or stories, before I found one nice guy that described the proper method of removing this ribbon. Thanks
Only hitch I experienced was identifying the correct replacement. The original diagram presented the accurate shape of the element my range required. However a different shaped element was displayed when I noted my unit is a series 12 serial number. I ordered it (with reservations) and as it turned out the replacement was identical to mine. Next time I will have a lil more confidence in the instructions given.
I rremoved two screws and pulled element out about 3 inches. I un hooked the two wires and tested with an ohnm meter to determine the condition of the element. Element was bad so I ordered a new one. Service and price were great. Easy fix. Thank you. Don't forget to unplug first.
