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30 year old stove, w/ completely worn out oven door gasket. Replace grease filter.
First Inserted 2x4x 36" length of wood behind the spring loaded door hinges to ease removing the oven door as I worked alone (this was recommended in a previous post and was essential when working alone, TY). Removed 2 retaining screws on the interior side of the door at the hinge locations. Slid the door up an off the hinges, moved door to a cloth pad protected work bench. Took the door and glass panels apart removing all the related screws, retaining clips; taking note of screws, retaining clip and panel locations for reassembly. Removed the insulation, removed the glass window pack, and removed of all rust fragments (dust) between the 2 glass window panels. The glass window pack metal molding retainer, on the oven interior side of the glass window had completely rusted away. Removed the existing oven door gasket. Cleaned the glass door window pack, and interior side of the oven door surface. Installed the new gasket, which fit very well. Tightened the loose door handle screws. Reassembled in reverse order all door components noted above, and replaced the door onto the hinges, fastened the 2 door hinge screws, removed the 2x4x36" wedge holding the hinges in the open position, and closed the door. Job complete. Thanks to previously posted directions as a good guide. Hope this helps as well.
Fortunate to have the replacement parts available. Wish a replacement door window pack was available, as the double glass, metal edge seal is deteriorating, and the metal molding retainer that held the glass in place is completely rusted away on the oven side of the existing window pack. Plan to find heat resistant caulk to seal the glass in the door, in lieu of the metal molding glass retainer.
Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos! I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!
I watched a You Tube video,removed and dismantled the door, installed the new hinge. I forgot to remove the small pin which is similar to a rivet. When I tried to close the door it bent. Eventually, I remembered the shipping pin and pulled it out with any damage. Believe it or not, I had read about the shipping pin on customer comments on PartsSelect...Good luck, it is relatively easy!
Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time. Steve
Unscrew the two screws. Pull the element out a few inches. Unclip the wires by pulling them apart. When we did this the wires retracted back into the opening. It was difficult to reach them and pull them back out. Be sure to hold the wires or clip something on them to hold them out till you can attach the new element. Attach the new element wires and screw the plate back on.
Easy job. Anybody can do it. This replacement is accessed from inside the oven.
1. Remove the two Phillips sheet metal screws that attach the backing element plate to the back wall of the stove. 2. Carefully and slowly pull out the element as far as you can to expose the two Faston connectors and wire. 3. While holding the heating wire exiting the baking element with the needle nose pliers, carefully remove each female Faston connector. 4. Installation of the new heating element is the reverse of above. I highly recommend that you use the needle nose pliers to hold the heating wire behind the male (spade) Faston connector while installing the female connector. This will prevent bending of the heating wire. 5. I also recommend turning on the new baking element to a high temperature for about 10 minutes with the door partially open to get rid of the new heating element odor before you bake any food.
Disconnected power from the stove. First I removed the down draft vent cover on stove top, then the two screws that held the switch plate in place, then used a wood chisel to pry the switch housing retaining washers off. Removed the remains of the old switch, Installed new switch, attached wires, and reinstalled switch plate. Placed vent cover on stove top and reconnected power.
Togle switch that turns on the fan or oven light was broken
Turned of electrical power. Loosen two screws that held the stove top part that held the switch. Disconnected the old switch by removing the two clamps that held it in place, made sure wires were connected correctly on the new switch and used the new clamps to attach the switch in place. Put everything back together and turned stove power back on. Everything worked as it should.
We cut off the electricity to the stove before touching anything. We removed the 2 screws on the plate that is mounted to the inner wall of the oven. Then we pulled the element out 2-3 inches and disconnected the wires. We connected the wires on the new bake element and pushed it into place, inserted the screws and DONE!
The bigger part of the "repair" was the clean up of the fire extinguisher residue inside the oven due to the fire.
fan/light switch was melted due to a hot pot placed on top.
removing the vent grid on top, by lifting off, then taking out the filter screen. removed the 2 screws on the back of the switchplate, then slide it back. made a drawing of the color wires and which way the switch faces... (it matters) I took off the the old press-nuts by just breaking them with needle nose pliers. removed the old switch, fitted the new one (paying attention to where the little prongs and big prongs were on the old switch. used the nut-driver to press on the new nuts that came with the switch, and hooked back up the wires, and put it back.
