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Broken baking (not broiling) element
I shut off the power at the circuit breaker. I loosened the screws securing the baking element to the back wall. I then pulled out the baking element toward me and found the wire leads bolted using self-tapping screws to the original element. Since the holes on the mounting tabs did not take the old screws, I had to drill out the holes on the tabs of the replacement element. After securely bolting the leads to either terminal on the element, I had to drill two holes on the back wall for the mounting plate of the new element. Then I used the cordless drill with the Philips bit to drive in stainless steel self-tapping screws (not zip screws) to secure the element to the back wall. I turned on the power at the circuit breaker and reset the clock (mechanical).
Needed to drill two new holes for fastening the element to the oven wall. Change in design. Enlarged the holes in the spade connections since I was unable to find smaller bolts than 4-40. I would suggest to make the holes in the spade connections larger. The change out was not a problem.
ordered part came in noticed i had to make ajustments to new heating element took socket set and unscrewed four screws put a retainer on the wires that came out of the wall to make sure they didn't go back into the wall and would be unretrieveable. installed new screws and cover plate and turned on the oven all done works perfectly.
When i finally got the right part.It only took few minutes to screw in and it worked perfectly.Customer support was very helpful in finding the correct part.thanks
I thought because the broiler was off that I could remove the element with not problem. As I was pulling the element out, it sparked, melting something in the back I couldn't see at the time. I immediately went to the breaker box and turned the power to the oven off. After I found the website online I was very gratified to see how easy it was to identify the element I needed and order it. I removed the old element. One of the wires from the element slipped through the hole in the back of the oven. To get at it I had to unscrew the four screws around the outside edge of the oven and pull the whole oven out. I had a table handy that I pulled up next to the oven and set it on without disconnecting the main wiring. After getting the oven out I removed the six or so screws on the coverplate and easily found the loose wire. I pushed the wire back through the hole in the back of the oven and made sure it would not fall back into the hole. I put the back plate on with all its screws; pushed the oven back into its hole and screwed the four screws in around the edge that hold the oven in. Then I attatched the broiler element to the spade connectors and screwed it back in place. I turned the breaker switch back on and tested it. It works.
After turning off power, I removed the two screws and pulled the element and wires out, removed the wires and then attached them to the new element and replaced the screws. However, this did NOT correct the problem. The broiler did not work until I tried several times turning it on and off. It then worked once but then did not. It worked once more after several tries. I then called a repairman suspecting the control board. He confirmed this and tested the old element which was in good working order after all. A new board has been ordered.
Door lock keeps flashing no F9 code after using the self cleaning on the oven when the door is open the motor on the lock stops but the door lock light is still on.
1. shut power off (if it is a built in you will have to go to the house control panel to shut the power off). To ensure that it is off check the clock light prior and after you throw the switch it now should be off. 2. remove screws holding ovens in cabinet should be 8 (Phillips)on the sides of the ovens inside, you have to have to have the doors open to remove 4 top and 4 bottom 3. slide ovens out of cabinet about 4 to 6 inches (do not pull on doors) open the bottom door reach inside of oven and slide to the left and the right while gently lifting. 4. close the bottom door and open the top door. above the door and below the control panel you should see at least 3 screws I removed them with a socket and ratchet, but you can use a wrench or adjustable wrench. 5. on top of the panel you should see two screws (Phillips) on one on each side. remove the screws. 6. The control panel has a small tab in the middle of it, you will now be able to lift the cover that the tab is slid into (tin this is the top of the oven) while you hold the tin cover up about 1/4 inch hold on to the panel tipping the bottom out this should release the tab and allow you to pull the control panel out. Now close the top door and the panel should rest on the handle of the door. 7. looking into the top of oven you should see two limit switches (they are round with two screws holding them down with two wires that slide on the tabs) One of these in my case the one on the right runs the fan while the one in the center runs the door lock. To determine if the switch is faulty remove one of the wires from one of the limit switches and either tape or use a clamp or even a paper clip so the wires on the same limit switch will be touching. 8. now carefully put the control panel back tipping the bottom out to insert the tab in the top cover and put in one of the screws to hold it in place. 9. turn on the power check to see if the door lock is working correctly and the door lock light is out. If it is not working and you hear the fan running then you have jumped the wrong switch. If this is the case shut the power off then return the wire back on the jumped switch and repeat the process with the other limit switch. 10. after you jumped the correct switch the door lock light is off. Check the system with the power on by putting the oven in the self cleaning cycle. The door lock light should start to flash and after the door locks it will stay on steady. Press the stop or off button the door lock light will begin to flash and when the lock is released the door lock light should go out. If the door has been pulled on or forced open the locking device can strip and will only go so far with out locking the door. You will then have to remove the locking device with the motor and replace the motor. With the switch jumped and everything is working then this is the problem shut the power off and replace the switch. Caution there are two limit switches in the bottom oven also one with a reset that is about $50 it is bigger and will not bolt down. The one that is in mine is smaller and cost about $23 make sure that you order the correct one shown in the diagram provided by Parts select. 11. reinstall the control panel should be 3 screws on the bottom and 2 on the top. Open the top oven door and carefully slide the oven back in place pushing on the sides do not push on the oven door. Attach the cabinet screws 8 turn on the power.
I simply removed the two screws but the back of the element holding it in place and pulled the element out far enough to clearly see the wiring. (TURN OFF THE ELECTRICTY TO THE OVEN). Gently pull the snap connectors off the element leads and snap them on the replacement element, push wiring back into oven opening, tighten down screws, clean up and close the door. Turn electricty back on and start the oven. It will smell for a few moinutes while the element heats up for the first time. You are good to go. To Easy
Bake element was glowing. . . Then by the morning, a "cancer-like" thingy traveled the length of it!after kicking off the breaker, I brought the broil down to the bake>. It worked (not recomended>. . But it worked for me). Came the new element, in 2 days. . . And all is back (the broil slots didn't line up so it was a redneck install at best til I got it back to normal). They should add the owner's faces to mt rushmore! Bless you all!
I cut of electric braker in fuse box, unscrewed two screws and replaced element in less than five minutes, really easy task. Oven worked well. Thank you Park Select, good job.
