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Broiler element was burned out
After turning the power off to the range, it was as simple as removing the screws for the broiler itself and the bracket and plugging in the new element. Yes, it was that easy.
Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
The broiler uses two male slip-on connectors that attach to two wires with female connectors in the stove. When removing the broiler element, I discovered that one of the two wires was burned in half specifically where the wire crimped to the female connector. This is abnormal and raised some concern. However, I deduced that the terminal crimp from the factory must have been defective and the wire nicked or cut in order to produce enough heat at that point for the wire to burn and fail. The female crimp terminal is a special, solid right angle design that I was unable to locate locally even at an electrical wholesale distributor. A straight terminal connector was used and crimped after stripping a new section of the wire. Heat will melt solder. You must use a high quality crimp connector and tool. The connector was then very carefully angled down slightly to maintain a safe distance from the back shield of the stove to the wire when in place. The new broiler works fine. There was likely nothing wrong with the old one. Just a wiring issue.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
First I unpluged the unit from the recepticle, then unscrewed the back panal from the oven. I removed the to wire connections from the bake element and then removed the two screws from the element itself. I removed the element and did exactly the sae in reverse to install the new unit.
Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.
Wife dropped a cast iron pan, it bounced and broke the front glass
On each side of the door at the top you will find an allen screw, remove those to remove the handle assembly. On the inside of the door, you will find two more silver allen screws, these release the glass frame. On the flimsy part that seperates from the main door frame, there are two small brackets that hold the glass panel. Remove those using a #2 philips head screwdriver, then using a flat head screwdriver, carefully pry out all the ramaining glass shards. The glass frame will be very wobbly, this is a good time to have a friend around. place the new glass panel in the bottom slot first, then just hold it up, with a helper on one side, and reinstall the top brackets. These fit tightly on the glass, so expect to have to push a bit. now reinstall the screws, fold both parts together, use the silver screws to reconnect the glass panel assembly to the door frame, and reinstall the handle. Now you have a nice new door front!
After I ordered a new element unit, I read the "do it yourself" review on the page. I took the back off of the range and found the broken wire. I found that I had the same problem with the wiring, and that maybe the element was not the problem. I went to Lowe's and purchased a female spade connector, because no one would sell me one through the parts department. All I did was cut off the wire at the end of the burned section, stripped back about 1/2 inch of the wire and put on the new spade connector. I took off the origonal connector/crimp, and slipped on the new one. (You do have to make sure that the wiring doesn't touch the range back) The element was not the problem, so the origonal one still works fine. I may keep the element I ordered, just to have it if this one goes out. I didn't even need to remove the screws from the element inside the oven. It can all be done from the back of the range.
unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$
Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.
The oven was not getting very hot because the bake element had stopped working (broiler element was fine).
I turned off the breaker to the stove, took the oven racks out, used my pliers to remove the nuts that hold the bake element in place, then used the pliers to disconnect the old element from the wires in the back of the stove. Connected the new element, screwed the nuts back in, flipped the breaker back on, and turned on the oven. Ten minutes, tops.