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Ice maker leaked water
Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.
R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic. Very Satisfied, Ron Martin
1. Turn off fridge and Pull plug from wall. 1a. Turn OFF water supply! 2. Remove rear dust cover to gain access to water valve. 3. Mark power connectors(red/green) attached to water valve before removing them. Remove connectors. 4. Remove supply line from old valve. 5. loosen mounting screw holding old valve in place. 6. remove valve. 7. disconnect two plastic water lines from valve. 8. Cut 1/2 inch off the end of each plastic line to get to un-streached line. Make sure you have enough line to still reach valve! 9. Insert plastic lines FIRMLY into outlets of NEW VALVE to lock in place. outlets are different sizes so you can't reverse them! 10. Install new valve and tighten mounting screw. 11. replace/tighten supply line to new valve. 13. Replace dust cover! 14. Plug in, Turn on fridge. 15. Turn on water supply, bleed air out by drawing a glass of water at door, and check for leaks! All Done!
unplug refridgertor shut water off. took off water line at valve un plug wires unsrew mounting valve. srew water line back plug wires back and mount vavle. turn on water. plug refridgertor in
Light switch rocker broke, disabling freezer internal light, water dispenser, and ice dispenser
Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
refrigerator would not cool but freezer worked fine
I removed the plastic housing inside the top of the rerigerator. Next I removed one hex head screw on the right side that screwed into the back wall using a 1/4 inch nut driver and I removed four hex head screws that screwed up through the temperature control unit into the top. There were two phillips head screws that had to be loosened, but not removed, that also scewed up through the assembly. After the hex head screws were removed, the whole assembly pulls out about an inch then drops down. Once it's down you can remove the adaptive defrost circuit board in the right rear corner of the unit. It's fixed! Thanks
Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!
Water dispenser not flowing properly and ice cubes were hollow.
I removed the water filter located in the refrigerator and replaced it with the bypass plug. The ice cubes and the water dispenser work properly . I am pleased with the outcome especially the price was only $15 and less than 5 minutes of my time. Maytag recommends replacing the water filter every six months at $40 a filter. One can see how this will add up in time. Eventually I am installing an after market water filter in line prior to the refrigerator.
Freezer worked fine but the Refrig. wasn't getting cold
My husband first replaced the Defrost heater and the fridge still didn't stay cold. We had to defrost the freezer once a week and the fridge would stay cold for a few days, but after we replaced the Thermostat Assembly it worked GREAT! Thank you all for your comments and suggestions it saved us hundreds of dollars having to replace an, otherwise, perfectly fine fridge. Good luck to you if you have this problem, it was sooo fast and easy to replace these parts and totally worth the money.
The plastic ring that is the connection between the drive motor at the back of the freezer compartment to the auger in the ice bin shattered when my wife was dispensing crushed ice.
Part selects cataglog for parts selection was very easy to use and the online service and delivery was great. When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple. I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws. If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.
First I rolled the fridge out and unplugged the power cord. I then removed the ice bin. There was one screw to the left under the ice bin rack holding it in. After removing that screw, I could pull the rack out far enough to disconnect the electrical connector. You have to squeeze the wings b-4 you can pull the connector loose. I put the rack on the countertop, removed two screws and the solenoid with plunger came out. I replaced the old solenoid, put everything back together, and realized I probably just saved myself $300. My Wife thinks I'm a Hero again. It works fine now.
It was easy breezy!! I felt like an empowered woman that I did it myself. I simply removed the old shelf supports with a screwdrive and inserted a screw thru the new supports and screwed them in.