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Light bulb was out
It was a bit awkward because the microwave is mounted over my stove. I had to twist around and install the bulb and then replace the cover. It was a bit uncomfortable. It took me about 10 minutes to complete.
Piece of cake. One screw to release the dropdown light diffuser. Just remember, the you're screwing the new bulb in from a reverse perspective. Also this site sends the correct part the first time.
Our maytag microwaive sounded like a thrashing machine when running!
Over a period of a year or so, our over the stove microwaive oven started sounding like a thrashing machine every time we turned it on and got progressivly worse. The repair service wanted nearly half the cost of the appliance to just come out to take a look. I removed the oven from the wall cabinet, removed the cover and discovered that the cooling fan blade had come loose from the motor shaft and was hitting the casing. I ordered the fan motor assembly from you folks, replaced the faulty fan, and the problem was resolved at about one half of the cost of a service call.
Removed case, Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan. Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor. Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
Really easy for a 75-year old female; just spent more time reading the online manual than actually installing the light bulbs to find out where to access the light bulbs.
Initially we started looking to buy a replacement microwave to replace our 13+ year old built-in microwave. It was a real pain finding a replacement to fit the exact dimensions. So I thought I'd try to find an old KitchenAid microwave. However, I was pleasantly surprised when this site came up on my search. Their website allows me to input the problems and then it showed two possible parts that needed to be replaced. I emailed tech support and asked them which part I needed. They responded very quickly and said I needed to replace the magnetron. I watched a couple YouTube videos and then pulled my microwave apart. It was incredibly easy to pull the outer cover off. The magnetron had 5 screws that needed to be removed and one electrical plug. Took me maybe 10 min to complete the entire repair. It was one of the easiest repairs I've done and so thankful for this site They saved me a ton of money from not buying a new microwave and we now have our microwave working again. In hindsight, I wouldn't hesitate. I'd order the Part now and get it fixed.
We needed a phillips head screw driver to remove the single screw holding the light bulb cover in place. Removing the old bulbs was a little work, because they had come loose from the sockets. We unplugged the microwave, so we could grip the sockets with a tool. I think my husband used a needle nose plier for this. The new bulbs screwed in easily, and then we refastened the light bulb cover with the phillips head screw driver.
Repair was very simple, removed microwave from wall and removed top cover and found fan loose on shaft. Removed fan and motor, new motor and fan slotted, good upgrade. Installed new motor and fan and top cover on, installed back on wall plate, tried and wife said it sounds like a new one.
removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).
Took microwave out of builtin cabinet with 4 screws. Put microwave on center island and removed cover. Tested interlock switch with volt meter and it appeared ok so I put my kit back in box and sent back. Took out magnetron unit and replace with new part. Put cover back on and test. All is working and installed back in cabinet. Two weeks later all still working great.
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
