it was actually pretty easy, it took about 20 minutes to fix, i had to unscrew the bottom portion of the oven to get to the Igniter on the bottom, then unscrew the Igniter, take off the old pice, and snap the new one in, put it all back together, and that was about it, i had dinner done by the time my husband got home from work. thanks
I removed all the screws that would turn with the screw driver, and the two that were near the ignitor that were much harder for to me loosen with the pliers. I then took the back off and unplugged the old ignitor and plugged in the new one. Put everything back together, and wala!, I had a working oven again. Thank you very much Part select. My husband was very proud of me, for accomplishing it on my own, He is an over the road truck driver, and I would of had to wait until he came home on the 24th of December.
door seal contaminated by a boil-over, not flexible
From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.
So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is like new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.
Simply remove the box containing the two right burners. Access the igniter by removing about 8 screws and pull the coupler for the igniter off with a pair of needel nose pliers. Replace with new igniter using the same tool. Re-assemble the box by screwing in the screws and give it a try. Worked great. Once slight hitch, be sure you don't leave a second screw driving in the box. As it will raddle. So I had to remove and reassemble twice. I'm not a surgeon! Thanks for the fast delivery!
Unplugged the stove and unscrew the 2 screws on the thermometer inside the stove and unplugged the white plastic in the back of the stove and I had to put the new extra piece that came with the sensor kit as it was needed because the socket were different.
The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!
I was pleased with how the job went. It took longer than expected because I am not really a "do it yourselfer", but I studied the door and reread how others managed the repair several times. There were more screws than mentioned here. Someone said 10 screws but there were 12. In the end I was pleased and surprised how simple the job was, but recommend others read carefully what others have written. I didn't but learned one must.
Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same