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left rear burner not working
I ran numerous tests to eliminate the on/off switch and to ensure the wires were not defective. Thus I came to the conclusion it must be the burner was defective. I ordered the part from parts.com. I received the part in less time than what was advertised. The part arrived in good condition. I placed the part in and it worked just like new.
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine. Mike
We moved into a house with seemingly newer looking appliances. After the dishwasher broke and destroyed our floor, we found out that they were all twelve years old. Amazing the condition they were in after all that time.
The oven was the next thing to break. The hinge snapped, and while we could still use the oven, it allowed hot air to seep out.
So I checked online and lo and behold, I found a hinge for under $20. Wow. Much cheaper than a new range.
The most amazing thing was that I purchased it on a Friday afternoon, and it showed up on Saturday, so we could do the repair over the weekend. I cannot tell you how impressed I am with that kind of service.
We had to take off the side panel which was a pain, but all in all, it was 7-8 screws and swapping the hinge was easy. One of the screws did not want to go back in, so I had to find a replacement, but other than that, it was a pretty easy repair.
First , I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven. Next, I removed the two screws at the front of the range top and slid the top out until I could disconnect the multi-plug connecting the wiring harness to the stove. I then took the entire top out to a table and set it upside down. It was easy to unbolt and disconnect the lead to the element. One of the leads was burnt, so I had to replace it. I slid the new element into place, bolted it down in the same orientation as the old one and reconnected the leads.
I slid the entire top back into place on the range and re-installed the securing screws. Then I flipped on the circuit breaker and turned the element on. Success! Perhaps I didn't really need to change the element since the burnt lead was the cause of failure. But its good to have a new part installed anyway.
Oven erratic, not heating correctly, timer beeper sounding
The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.
light would stay on all the time saying burner was on although it wasn`t
unplugged power took the back panel off unplugged the 5 wires removed knob by grabbing and pulling off took two screws out of front panel removed the switched put new switch in place and reversed the procedure went very smooth know problem at all any one with any kind of ability should change this switch in know time at all
1) unplugged stove, 2) opened oven door, 3) removed racks, 4) Unscrewed heat element plate, 5) removed broken heat element, 6) connected new heat element, 7) re screwed in the plate, 8) plugged stove in, 9) turned oven on to verify new heat element was working, 10) placed rack back in oven. Done!
IMPORTANT NOTE: This element is shaped like a B. The straight line part of the B, which is closest to the back part of the oven, doesn't light up. At first I thought it was a defective part. My husband is the cook and I never realized this. This fact isn't indicated in the instruction booklet which came with the oven. My sister has the same oven and she didn't realize it doesn't light up either. I looked up installation instructions on You Tube and although I was very nervous, it was easy to install. It's a little awkward because the wires are in the back of the oven so have a flashlight handy.
My genius scientist husband responsible all electric string connections, I responsible buy right parts and all support work, we worked as a team and fix the problems:) :)
replaced burner by following the wiring from the photo we took. worked god except was cooking to hot and would not cycle. went to use my smaller burner in the back on the same side and the center of the double came on. so we watched another video looked at what we did wrong with the wiring. here we wired the burner slightly wrong we did not follow the numbering. this time followed the numbering and all is good. burner is working good and cycling.
Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.
I did not mark wires with their associated numbered connections on the old burner but I did take pictures prior to removing the old burner. This slightly complicated finding the right connections for the wires on the new burner but the photos taken were invaluable in doing so. The placement of burner connections between new and old was different. Additionally, there were 2 connections on new and old that were not numbered. These turned out to be the power to the inner and outer coils and their connections were determined by examining the burners and connecting accordingly. Also, not mentioned in the instructions was a light on the new burner that the old burner did not have. I removed the light and the wire connecting it to the burner and connected the freed new burner connector based on the old/new burner connection numbering. Despite my lack of confidence that I correctly installed the burner, it worked on the first try and I am very happy to have it fully functional again.
The replacement unit was a substitute part. Wiring slightly different. Instructions bare minimum. Follow instructions and it does work. No instructions as to how to remove the stove top. Been there before so sort of knew how. Nothing in the Jenn Air manual for stove top removal. The control panel has to be removed, two screws on each side and four hex screws on bottom, this allows for the disconnect of wiring for the top. Remove the two trim pieces one on each side. One screw at top and one at bottom. The trim piece will move towards the rear and come off. Two screws on each side and two in the back will release the top. Remove top and lay on padded surface. You are ready to replace unit.
