Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
One of the Baffles came loose.
I took out screws holding top to dryer & raised the top & proped it up to gain access to inside of the dryeeer drum. I then inatalled the new baffle & secured it with 2 screws. It would have been better if the part came with new screws.It was hard to determine which was the right screws for this application.
Close would not get dry. Dryer started normal. Timer would not time out.
Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.
The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.
I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).
Removed one screw and took out old broken door strike, replaced with new door strke and put screw back in. Only took two three days to get the part. The dryer is as good as new!
Took off the lower front panel, removed duct piece from filter to blower fan, removed two screws and two wires to thermostat in exhaust ducting, then replaced thermostat with new one. Very easy job and everything worked like new when I reassembled it.
This was fairly easy, I have had the dryer front off before. Unplug dryer from electrical outlet. Pull dryer away from wall. Remove the dryer door, open dryer door there are 2 phillips screws on dryer door hing, remove these crews then lift gently and remove door, across from these screws, where dryer door closes into face cover of dryer remove 2 more phillips screws. From top of face cover, pull out front of face cover and lift to remove face cover of dryer. On each side of dryer on the front, after removing the front cover is a 5/16 bolt, remove these and pull off retaining bracket with a twisting motion. You now can lift the top of the dryer up. You can now see the barrel drum. Rotate barrel by hand so the broken baffle is on top. Remove two 5/16 bolts, and replace new baffle in place. Reassemble in reverse order of disassemble.
I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.
Unplugged the unit Removed door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews) Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the top Of the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the two Bottom clips. You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me. Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts I Needed to order. The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrel A couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removed Note the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where the Two steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off that Supports the barrel. There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go to The door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assembly I used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holds The bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pin The tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reached Around from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt around The motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrel Makes me think I should have been a repairman.
gas dryer would fire, but shut down before getting warm enough to dry clothes
Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.
I set the dryer on its back to make alignment of the front drum guide cover easy to reinstall in the seal after completion. I removed the 2 screws at the bottom front then removed the white and yellow wires to the interlock switch and set the front cover aside. I then removed the 4 nut screws holding the front drum cover and removed. On the back side there are two teflon and cork "bearings". I had ordered two even though only one was worn down to metal. On each one I then removed the two rivets by drilling them out. Then I placed the corks into the bearing slots with a little glue then inserted the teflon into the slots and riveted them into place with the rivets that came with the kit. I replaced the drum cover, connected the switch and screwed the dryer front cover back on. I set the dryer back up. Connected the vent hose and turned the dryer on. Beautiful sweet smooth and quiet operation. I had replaced the front and back drum seals a few months ago and saw the teflon was missing but did not have the kits at that time. With a complete job I would recommend replacing the front and rear drum seals and the two teflon/cork bearing kits at the same time.
Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!
My dryer - which is about 20 years old - was starting to make some rubbing/scraping sounds from the drum area.
This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site. 1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel. 2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection. 3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides. 4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath. 5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket. 6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip. 7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!) 8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.
Dryer Baffle broke off and rear felt seal was pulled out
1. Remove 2 screws that hold door hinges on. 2. Remove 2 screws on opposite side of door hinge and remove 2 plastic clips. 3. There are 2 hex screws that hold the front panel on. Remove these and the panel is held on by a flex clip. Gently twist the top towards the outside of the dryer and they will come free. 4. tilt panel forward and lift of 2 clips at the bottom. 5. Remove the screws under the cover panel which will release the drum holder and lint collector. 6. Lift top of dryer and lift out drum. TAKE THE TIME SINCE THE UNIT IS OPEN TO VACUUM OUT THE ENTIRE DRYER. CLEAN OUT THE EXAUST TO IMPROVE EFFICIENCY AND SAFETY. 7. I replaced the rear felt by using a flat head screwdriver to lift tabs and install felt. Using the screwdrive I compressed the tabs to hold the felt. 8. The baffle was installed inside the drum and using 2 hex bolts to hold the baffle in. I added 2 washers since the hole was inlarged due to the baffle becoming loose and pulling through the metal drum. 9. Re-install the drum and push rear felt to the outside of the drum. 10. The front drum needs to be installed. Push the felt to the outside of the drum and check the rear felt to ensure it is still on the outsid of the drum. Install 4 hex screws to secure front drum holder. 11. Insatall lint catch unit with 4 additional hex screws. 12. Verify the lint collection panel lins up with the exhaust fan at the base. When units line up tighten all 8 hex screws. 13. Reinstall front cover panel by inserting panel on bottom clips and tilt up to the dryer. The top corners are gently twisted to the outside of the dryer to reattach to the spring clips. Use 2 hex screws to attach panel. 14. Re-attach plastic clips and 2 screws on side opposite of door hinges. 15. Re-attach door hinges with 2 screws. Cleck to ensure the door closes. 16. Check dryer operation.
