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One of the drum baffle's boke from it's mount
Removed old broken plastic grommet's and installed two new plastic grommet's. Attached new baffle using old screws. Used a short piece of picture frame wire to install the two new grommets by fishing them into place with out removing the washer drum.
1) Removed machine front by removing four (4) screws. 2) Removed rear access panel. 3) Replaced antiquated motor controller with upgade revision; basically unplug and plug 4) replaced motor and 5) closed up unit. Whole job took about an hour with half the time spent moving the unit to work oo.
Had to remove the tub. Tha bearings had to be removed from the drum. After installing the new bearings(which are available @ O'rReilly's) the seal was't bad
First ya have to find the problem that takes time. Pulled the front off via the four screws, two on the door and two on the opp side. Removed the two top hold down brackets that hold the top on (on the front), popped out the four screws for the detergent and the top hinged up, The hose was right there. Removed the two hose clamps, found the crack ordered if from you guys.(very fast) slapped it in and put a load in.
got instructions off internet from others who did same repair; after taking inner basket out, used drift to remove outer bearing; seal was difficult to remove but used drift to force innner bearing into seal and seal popped out. had help reinstalling inner basket into outer basket.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Washer was so loud in the spinning cycle it sounded like a jet was taking off
We took the washer completely apart. Replaced the bearings, pulley and belt. We decided to replace anything that involved the spinning cycle while we had it all apart. It was well worth the time and effort we put into it. It works like a chime and is very quiet . Silence is golden ! Hopefully it will work another 18 years.
leaking water at the seal between the drum and door assembly
I took the door off, front panel, soap dispenser(to lift the top out of the way)and took off the cross braces on the front of the machine. I pealed the door bellows off and took the drain hose apart; there was much gunk and debris to clean out...maybe something here was clogged? Removed all the snap clips and took the front of the tub off;the tub seal seemed good, but lots of grime/gunk build up.I cleaned all surfaces, put the new tub seal on,and put it all back togther. The hardest part was working the snap clips back on; I worked a few on both sides, top and bottom, and then filled in the rest. The machine has been working fine for a month now, no leaks:)
Of course I looked at you tube to get the instructions on how best to do the job. It was very helpful. Getting the front bearing out was the major issue. It was so corroded that I could not get it out with a hammer and punch. I had to build a bearing puller which I copied from the you tube video out of a 3" schedule 40 pipe. After that the repair went very smoothly. Putting on the bellows cable and spring assembly took two of us. Also putting the clips that held the inside drum on took two of us. One of us used channel loks to squeeze the two drums together while the other installed the clip. I had trouble identifying the tube seal part number. I phoned for help and the customer service person was very helpful and ordered me the correct part. Thank you
Using the video tape (YouTube URL) provided, I went step by step and replaced the bellows with no problem. No water leaking..the toughest part was putting the spring back on, it takes some coordination and muscle.
I followed the steps on the first post which are very good. I had trouble, however, putting the seal over the drum. I finally removed the plastic rim to the drum by removing the clips. I was then able to lay the rim on the floor and put the new seal over it more easily. It is a lot like putting a bicycle tire on a rim. I had no helpers so I used a vice grip pliers on one end of the cable-spring and another pliers on the other. I was then able to pull both ends together enough to get them to hook up. I recommend removing the plastic rim as I mention above. Had I done this first, I would have done the job in less than 30 minutes.
Working from back of machine, slip old belt off drum pulley. Loosen 1/2" nut to remove drive motor from outer drum assembly. Work motor toward front of machine, while holding carefully, to slip out of old isolators. Remove worn isolators. Replace with new isolators (lip towards front of machine). Re-install motor with the nut/washer all the way up against the stop for the least amount of pressure possible on belt tension..tighten bolt. (Believe me.. when you try to install the belt, it will still seem like the belt is not the right size and way too tight.).. It is, however, the correct belt. Have a zip-tie ready. Engage the new belt on the motor shaft pulley. The belt grooves should line up with the motor shaft grooves towards the end of the shaft. Grip the drum pulley and rotate counterclockwise while guiding the belt onto the pulley. At about 12 O'Clock, zip-tie the belt to the pulley.. then rotate ccw until installed.. (about 6 O'Clock). Snip off the zip-tie and your ready to go.