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I carefully matched the model number to replacement part cross-reference and ordered the Part. You-tube instructions were accurate except for the plug wire that prevented removal of the auger motor. It took significant maneuvering to drop the old motor. The new motor fit in better but the male plug configuration did not match the female plug from the refrigerator.
A lot of wasted effort and time as well as expense! What good is matching replacement parts when the replacement is not correct?
Understood the problem by removing the old dispenser first. That made me realize I also needed the shaft. Went online and matched up all the #’s and the repair went smoothly.
I ordered a gasket and follow the instructions, such as warm the gasket, to get it in the door using my fingers, but the door did not close titght enough. The problem could be something else. The initial problem is in there
Ice sheet forming on the bottom of the freezer, requiring frequent disassembly and cleanup
We were misled into believing we needed to replace the door seal, and after this replacement was completed we found out it was not the case.
Instead we needed to clean out the EXTENSION-DRAIN,DUAL EVAP W11661573, part #5 on the unit diagram, which is found on the back of the unit.
Back to the seal instructions: Once you remove the original seal you cannot reuse it, so if you replace it and it is not what you needed, you can't return the not-needed part. There goes about $190.
Also, the seal comes with no instructions (at the time there was no instruction video here either and we had to search other sites). It turns out it takes at least 24 hrs for the rubber seal to regain its shape. You also may have to use a hair dryer for this pre-installation process. Because of this, I marked the time of repair as more than 2 hours. The end of the instruction video we followed called for testing the new seal installation with a bill ($), if you can pull it out easily from the closed door, you need to continue heating the seal with the hair dryer to improve sealing.
So do yourself a favor and test you fridge seal first, to see if you really need to replace it. Close the door with a bill or paper trapped. If it is loose or falls out, seal needs to be replaced, if the bill/paper stays firm enough, the seal is fine.
It took a lot of research through other resources, not Partselect, to eventually fix the ice formation issue. From all the appliance repairs I have done, this was the most frustrating, although not the most complicated. Since no part needs to be purchased (though you could replace the drain tube for just $24 instead of hassle to clean it), no real help from parts stores is available, and you have to rely on random people with their home videos, some are reliable some are not. We could not find one with our model (596.72383411) and had to figure it out based on similar models. Our drain tube has a siphon, so it is a little harder to clean than other models with s straight tube.
Refrigerator would work great then after 2 weeks would stop. I had to unplug and wait a few minutes the plug it in again. Would work 2 weeks or so then the exact same thing. Hopefully the main board will solve the problem
(1) Unplug the refrigerator (2) Remove 4 nut driven sheet metal screw to remove access plate in the back. (3) Remove a clear hard plastic cover. Several electronic boards are held in place with plastic tabs. (4) The main electronic board is easily recognizable. (5) Unplug all wire plugs from main board. Don't work about what plug goes where when reinstalling. Each plug is different from the others. It's fool proof. (6) I wore vinyl gloves when I handled and installed the new board. I did not want any static charge to jump to the board. (7) Re-install all electrical plugs. Note use minimum force to remove and install these plugs as some are small and fragile. (8) Before re-installing the hard clear plastic cover make sure all electrical plugs are properly installed. (9) Follow thru to reverse removal procedure for metal plate. (10). Plug in the refrigerator. (11) I purchased a delay receptable to prevent both electrical surges and reduction in electrical voltage.
The door switch was broken so the interior light would not come on.
The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!
changed the light bulb still would not work so I figured it was the switch sure enough.
I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.
Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.
use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks
Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.