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Overall the project was not bad. There are many pieces to the door. Carefully observe the order in which the door comes apart. This will make putting everything back together a lot quicker. The screws that hold the glass clips in the door were almost impossible to remove by hand. A power drill was helpful. Extra time was needed to wash off the baked on crud. When it was all done, the oven looked brand new.
My wife put cold wet rage on glass after self cleaning cycle.
Repair went well. The door came off easily after I figered out how to pull the hinges out of the oven chasis. The door dissassembled fine until I reached the 7 tags with screws that hold the inner glass in place. Three of the screws were frozen tight. Probable due to the age of the oven and the heat cycles on them. A little penetrating oil and working with the screws finally worked them loose. Just be carfull when tightening the screws with the new glass. If the screws are tightened too tight it may break the new glass.
Pulled the oven door out. Took the whole door apart and put it back together. The first time I put it back together the inner glass was still loose so I had to take it apart again and figure out how to hold everything together tightly. Your part was perfect. The glass was exactly the same as two others in the oven door. I wish I had instructions but when the parts fit it sure helps.
I ran numerous tests to eliminate the on/off switch and to ensure the wires were not defective. Thus I came to the conclusion it must be the burner was defective. I ordered the part from parts.com. I received the part in less time than what was advertised. The part arrived in good condition. I placed the part in and it worked just like new.
removed 4 scews underside of door 2 more at top to remove door handle. than removed front door panel. removed inner sheild by bending 4 tabs.removed outside door glass than insideglass. reversed process to complete.
Inner door glass cracked after cold water spilled onto the hot glass.
As others have said, the repair is easy and it's just a matter of unscrewing the screws (with a drill, not with a hand screwdriver) and carefully arranging the parts so you can reassemble in the same order. The trickiest part for me was removing the door. The flat metal part of the hinge extends straight back into the stove about four inches. You need to open the door a bit (about 45 degrees worked for me, but any angle where you feel you have leverage vis-a-vis the hinge will work) and then lift the door at the hinge slightly while pulling straight back. I was worried the hinge would spring out and cut my fingers off, so I kept my fingers away. As it turns out the hinges didn't snap down once the door was removed, so at least on my stove the hinges were not as scary as I imagined they could be. The whole process was a one-person job, though if you have two people, it would be nice to have one person on each side of the door while removing it and replacing it when done. All in all, it was definitely worth it in time and money to do this repair myself -- the oven was back up and working within a day of the broken glass, and I'm sure I couldn't have gotten it done any sooner had I called someone to repair it.
First , I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven. Next, I removed the two screws at the front of the range top and slid the top out until I could disconnect the multi-plug connecting the wiring harness to the stove. I then took the entire top out to a table and set it upside down. It was easy to unbolt and disconnect the lead to the element. One of the leads was burnt, so I had to replace it. I slid the new element into place, bolted it down in the same orientation as the old one and reconnected the leads.
I slid the entire top back into place on the range and re-installed the securing screws. Then I flipped on the circuit breaker and turned the element on. Success! Perhaps I didn't really need to change the element since the burnt lead was the cause of failure. But its good to have a new part installed anyway.
The repair went very well the most difficult was getting the door off. There is a certain way to do it as the springs in the door are very strong. It went well except for a small cut a thumb. The repair is easier with two people at least to get the door removed. You must be very careful to remember how the door comes apart. Be careful to not touch the glass putting it in once it is installed it is impossible to get the finger prints off. With help of a friend or in this case my son along with a couple of bloody marys it went well and we had fun.
Dual inner element stopped working. The ceramic portion had a crack most likely from thermal stress over the years.
First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W
The steps are very easy- 1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge
2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.
3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.
4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both
5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations
6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element
7. Put everything back together in reverse order.
Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.