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replace inner glass on oven door
Once I figured out to get the door off, the actual replacement went well. remove door, using allen wrenches in the holes of the door remove outer glass - two screws on top, four screws along sides of inside door, two brackets on the bottom that revealed anothe sheet of glass- held into place by a metal flange at the top (3 screws) and two brackets at the bottom. Pay close attention to how they are mounted for reassembly. They are the same physical configuration, but mount differently to hold glass up from the surface below That reveals another sheet of glass held into place by two "ears" at the top and a bracket at the bottom. When that is removed, the next thing to come off is a metal housing on which the glass just removed was mounted. I elected to leave the door hinge springs in place, and slide the metal housing in and out of position. That reveals the glass which needed replacement. There is some insulation around the glass, but under the metal housing. It came out when I slid the metal out, which moved it from its location, but I think I got it back ok...be sure that it does not sitck out around the glass when you reassemble everything. Put everything back in place, replace the door and remove the allen wrenches. Done. Parts select had the product, and sent it very quickly.
Ordered the glass and read the other reviews/instructions on the PartSelect site. Also read the instructions in my owner's manual for removing the oven door. The hardest part of replacing the glass was the removal and replacement of the door. Once I had the door out, replacing the glass was as simple as removing about 8 or so screws, lifting off the cover and replacing the glass, then replacing the screws. One of the hinges on the door had closed and I was not able to open it to replace the door, so I had to have a neighbor come over to over his muscle power. The hinge problem should not have happened and without that little issue, this is a simple repair that I'm sure saved me at least $100.00 on repairman! And - I'm a woman!
Very simple. I removed two screws holding the oven in place. Slid oven out onto the kitchen floor - it doesn't really weigh that much. I then removed about a dozen screws holding the back panel in place. I removed the back panel, disconnected the thermostat by unscrewing a single screw and pulled the defective part from the connectors. I then installed the new thermostat, screwed the back panel back on, slid the oven back into place and re-secured with the two screws. Voila! Repair done. The whole procedure took about 15 minutes and was not difficult at all.
I used the instructions from another user on this site and the instructions were great. First look in your oven manual to see how to get the oven off-hardest part of repair. Before removing door-duct tape the broken glass. Remove door. Lay door down on flat surface and keep track of screws as you take them out. Remove outer liner-we removed 6 screws total. Replace glass with new glass. Reattached outer liner back onto door. Replace door. This is a GREAT site. Thanks.
Oven door would not close completely--door eventually fell off
I looked at the schematic provided on the website and removed all of the screws wih a phillips head screwdriver. I took care not to scratch the stainless steel surface by placing the oven door on a carpet. I removed the old bent hinges and replaced them with the new hinges. I aligned the holes and replaced the screws. The entire job took about 20 minutes.
Oven door latch would self-activate the door-lock feature for all operatons making it impossible to use the oven
My electric oven is a built-in. First I turned off power to the oven.
Then, I removed the oven door as instructed by Kitchenaid, next I removed the screws that held the concealing-sleeves on each side of the oven opening. Slid down the sleeves, loosened the exposed screws on each to allow the oven to slide out. Slid the oven out abut half way to expose the top. Removed the metal sheeting from top of oven to expose area where door latch assembly was secured. Removing the sheeting was made easier by removing the screws on each side of the control panel and lifting the panel out of the way.
The latch assembly is held in place by two screws through the front of the plastic venting. Identified the connections to appropriate points before I removed the wiring, removed wiring and attached to points on the new latch assembly.
Secured latch assembly to plastic vent, secured sheeting to top of oven, placed conrol panel back in place, pushed oven back and secured with screws. Slid sleeves into position, secured with screws and replaced oven door.
After running the cleaning cycle the oven and broiler will not heat up.
After some major troubleshooting and "some" help from support folks at fixya.com I was able to pin the problem down to a blown thermistor. The repair was very simple - pull the back plate off and remove the two screws holding the thermistor in place. Replace thermistor and test both heating elements. I assume during the cleaning cycle the thermistor was over heated. Makes one wonder if it was a faulty thermistor or will it happen again on the next cleaning cycle.
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
Used a Phillips head screw driver to remove cover that was covering the over bottom 1/3 of the installed gasket. I then used flathead screwdriver to help remove gasket from the "pins" that were in the gasket that held it to the oven. Installed new gasket inserting pins into the oven. Then I installed cover over bottom 1/3 of gasket. Overall process was very easy
Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and connector back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install
Oven door would not stay completely closed and the light would come on.
First we had to take the oven door off, which proved a bit tricky. There was a release pin which was hard to find and release. Then we had to unscrew the screws and take the glass and inside of the door off to access the spring hinges. Replacing the hinges was pretty easy, as was reassembling the door. The door snapped back into place and voila! the door stayed shut.
Removed the door and laid it flat with the cracked glass facing up. applied duct tape to the broken glass to help hold it together. Removed the screws from the frame holding the glass. lifted the frame off,removed the broken glass and replaced it with the new piece. replaced the frame. and put the door back on the oven.
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.