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Freezer Cooling Problems - would get too warm then too cold. Condenser fan would run sometime but not always
Unplug Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill) Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black) Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable. Remove the fan mounting plate Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire) Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit Replace back panels
Refrigerator not cooling, freezer thawing but cold.
I removed the back lower panel within the freezer compartment. The cooling fan which draws cold air from the evaporator unit was functioning fine. I then unplugged the unit. The evaporator unit was frozen in a block of ice. I removed all food contents from both the freezer and the refrigerator, moving them to a back-up refrigerator. I then allowed the radiator to thaw completely overnight. Upon restarting the unit it became cold within an hour thus I new the compressor was fine. I surmised it must be a defrost issue. I then unconnected the defrost heater and thermostat assembly. The device was easy to remove. I then routed the wire of the new assembly on the side of the evaporator unit and clipped the thermostat back onto the cooper feed, plugged the unit into the connection. Next I turned my attention to replacing the adaptive defrost timer. In the top of the refrigerator compartment, I removed the plastic shroud, by sliding back and pushing the plastic clips in. I took out 4 screws holding the unit to the ceiling of the refrigerator. Slowly lowering this, I could see the adaptive defrost timer in the right rear corner. I simply unplugged the unit and replaced with a new unit. I replaced both items although I am unsure which was not working. Refrigerator is working fine now.
Upon careful inspection, I found that the dispenser also would occasionally fail to shut off when dispensing whole or crushed ice, which led me to think that the problem was in the dispenser actuator rather than in the water solenoid or fountain switch control board. To inspect the actuator mechanism, I shut off power to the refrigerator, removed the escutcheon mounting screws, the escutcheon, the cable from the fountain switch control board, and finally the fountain bracket assembly. There was a small amount of hard water scale on the back of the actuator pad, but no groove in the plastic part of the pad that actuates the switch. I replaced the pad and switch (1 screw) and reassembled the dispenser. The dispenser no longer sticks and shuts off normally.
Ice machine motor broke from housing & fridge door lower hinge worn, so door is staying closed
Just pulled out ice bucket put to the side and then pulled out framed housing that surrounds the ice bucket tray and put on table went in the rear where the turn motor is and disconnected the wires from the housing next to it and disconnected the motor which had cracked the wal it was mounted to and broke and fell which left a huge hole and the , took the 4 screws out and remounted it onto the new housing rear wall, note that to get the twist key lever that unscrews clock wise you may have to hit wit a hammer bluntly to brak it lose first then it unscrews easy, but this has to be done first before re assembly of the motor as it goes through the new housing wall , once this is donr then put your screw end through the hole and re assemble the wing devise back onto the moter screw drive which it will screw on counter clockwise and tap a few quick times to snug with a ball hamer or a small hammer, T The hinge door pin is real easy, just unscrew the top of door 3 screwa and lift off the door set aside put new door pin hinge on then set the door back onto the pin hole align up and set it back down in the hinge hole and replace screws on the upper door hinge on top of fridge. all this took about 5 minutes tops, it took me more time to take all the items out of the doorway of my fridge that it did to do the task itself. Hope this could help.
Removed about 6 screws. Replaced the solenoid and door kit. Replaced the screws. These parts were easy to replace. They were also super easy to identify and order from the site. I received them two days after I placed my order. Thanks partselect.com!
simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!
Bottom of freezer compartment was icing up/freezer was leaking water
UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE BEFORE YOU START> First I removed the shroud covering the lights and controls in the top of the refrigerator side. This was the hardest part, actually. Their are two indentations on the back of the cover and it is really hard to pull that cover off. Anyhow, once you do that, their are two screws, one by each light bulb in the top of the fridge that need to be removed. Their are also three hex head screws that need to be removed, two in the front corners of the assembly, one in the center, back of the fridge. Take those out and the whole assembly drops down. In the back right had corner of the assembly is the adaptive defrost control. Unplug it and set it aside. Plug the new one in. Put everything back together and you are back in business.
1. Turn off fridge and Pull plug from wall. 1a. Turn OFF water supply! 2. Remove rear dust cover to gain access to water valve. 3. Mark power connectors(red/green) attached to water valve before removing them. Remove connectors. 4. Remove supply line from old valve. 5. loosen mounting screw holding old valve in place. 6. remove valve. 7. disconnect two plastic water lines from valve. 8. Cut 1/2 inch off the end of each plastic line to get to un-streached line. Make sure you have enough line to still reach valve! 9. Insert plastic lines FIRMLY into outlets of NEW VALVE to lock in place. outlets are different sizes so you can't reverse them! 10. Install new valve and tighten mounting screw. 11. replace/tighten supply line to new valve. 13. Replace dust cover! 14. Plug in, Turn on fridge. 15. Turn on water supply, bleed air out by drawing a glass of water at door, and check for leaks! All Done!
Water valve had cracked in a move and was leaking badly
Replaced the water valve with the new part by removing 2 screws to allow folding back of the cover, removing 1 screw and pulling valve assembly out. 1 more screw took the two valves apart, unscrewed the water lines, replaced them on new valve (with newer push-in connections it was even easier), reassembled unit, turned the water on, checked for leaks, none found. Works great, was very easy.
Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.
R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic. Very Satisfied, Ron Martin
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
Light switch rocker broke, disabling freezer internal light, water dispenser, and ice dispenser
Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.
refrigerator would not cool but freezer worked fine
I removed the plastic housing inside the top of the rerigerator. Next I removed one hex head screw on the right side that screwed into the back wall using a 1/4 inch nut driver and I removed four hex head screws that screwed up through the temperature control unit into the top. There were two phillips head screws that had to be loosened, but not removed, that also scewed up through the assembly. After the hex head screws were removed, the whole assembly pulls out about an inch then drops down. Once it's down you can remove the adaptive defrost circuit board in the right rear corner of the unit. It's fixed! Thanks