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The can drinks in refrigerator were not as cold as usual. I opened the freezer and touched the back panel and noticed there was a frost buildup. Since I have had this problem before, I knew that the defrost heater must be bad. I removed all the shelves and the tracks. The back panel is held in by 8 small sheet metal screws. I removed the screws and pulled the back panel up and out. The refrigerator is in garage, so I put a fan in front of it and the fan melted the ice off the coils. I disconnected the wires and checked the the heaters (both wired together) with an ohm meter. The meter showed the heaters to be open. (bad). Actually only 1 of the 2 heaters were bad, but I replaced both of them since they are wired together as a set.
Turn off the water source and unplug freezer. Remove copper tube and then remove valve from back of refrigerator. Disconnect plastic tube and power connection. Mark power connection plug top with a "T", this reminder helps with the new valve. Plug power and plastic tube into new valve and screw assembly back into refrigerator. Using a wrench, connect copper tube into valve. Restore water source and plug back in in freezer. Within a couple hours, ice production was back. Like the other repair stories (that helped me), this job was very easy.
Removed power, removed the ice maker being held with three screws. Replaced with old unit. This box was so old that I robbed parts from the old and placed them on the new unit. Mkes ice very good.
Frist pulled everything out of freezer put in refridge then took out ice maker box then removed ice maker motor removed back panel took hair drier defrosted the coil then removed bracket screws that hold heaters in place removed bad heater, the hardest part of the job was getting the wirers back around the coils when done just reversed the process.I have a side by side so there was not a whole lot of room to work with. I only weigh 160 lbs it was a tight fit for me. But all in all it went well. Thanks
Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time. Steve
Outer case of freezer was heating up, not making ice (sometimes) turned up thermostat several times (especially freezer)
I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.
Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well
replacement was relative easy. The problem came with wire connector that had to be cut, stripped and crimped. The crimping was the dificult part. the connector was a problem to crimp.
Freezer-side cold; Fridge-side warm of side-by-side Refridgerator
evaporator coils were frozen solid and air wasn't flowing across them
read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take
in any case... - check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side - inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked
- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...
- unplug the unit - remove all goods from freezer and fridge - remove freezer side racks - remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place) - allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun) - disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram) - if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so... -- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements) -- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass) -- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors -- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)
- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER. - get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F. - if not, replace it
-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer -- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller -- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on
Found a tip online that said to check the resistance of the defrost coil, when I had none I knew the coils had burned out. Before pulling the old coil out I tied on some long pieces of string as was suggested, that made things go very quick! The hardest part was reaching to the back of the narrow freezer space, but fortunately I have long arms. So far all is working well, and I have a great deal of satisfaction knowing I did the repair myself!
Replaced the water valve. I knew that the ice maker was working by watching the movement. It was not getting water to it, s I figured it was the electric water valve and sure enough, that fixed the problem.
Ice would not come out of try completely due to age and residue buildup
After trying to clean and use chemicles to remove residue, I found that it would not work. Ice would build up in tray causing an overflow in the fill process. this would freeze cubes in tray below causing dispenser not to work properly, New tray seemed to solve the problem. Removed old and installed new
First I removed all the screws from the back cover. 2nd removed fan nut and fan blade 3rd removed fan bracket 4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts. Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord Reinstalled fan nut and blade, reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!
